1. Longevity: Ingredients for a healthy aging
A new approach to anti-aging, longevity focuses on prevention and repair by addressing the underlying drivers of cellular ageing.
Within this framework, Mibelle Biochemistry unveiled EpiSnow, a biotech-derived active ingredient inspired by the survival mechanisms of snow algae. EpiSnow targets seven key pathways of skin ageing, aiming to lower the skin’s biological age while restoring a more even, youthful-looking complexion.
Following the same logic, Clariant launched AlgaSurge, a next-generation active dedicated to skin longevity, derived from extremophile microalgae through blue biotechnology. Positioned as a natural, vegan alternative to hyaluronic acid and PDRN, it delivers both immediate and long-term benefits: forming a protective surface film to reduce dehydration, while low-molecular-weight fractions penetrate deeper to boost hydration and support cellular regeneration. The result is clinically visible effects from the first application—plumping, improved density and radiance—alongside sustained improvements in wrinkles, elasticity and pigmentation.
With Lactopalm Para, Codif targets pigmentary aging. This new cosmetic active ingredient, based on Floridoside, extracted from a red algae through lacto-fermentation, targets all types of pigmentation disorders by acting upstream and downstream of the mechanisms linked to oxidative stress and the accumulation of pigments such as lipofuscin and melanin.
Chemyunion complements this approach with Peptid4 Light MB, a tetrapeptide targeting the MC1R receptor to modulate melanin production without rebound effect or inflammation, thus offering a progressive solution that is well-tolerated even by sensitive skin.
2. Scalp care takes center stage
The scalp is emerging as a fully-fledged focus of aesthetic care for both men and women, with a growing pipeline of dedicated active ingredients.
Lessonia has extended its expertise into scalp care with Alter-Thickhair, a new-generation powder made from upcycled fibers derived from oud wood residues and formulated with 100% natural origin ingredients. Vegan and microplastic-free, it is applied to thinning areas to deliver an immediate thickening effect and a natural finish, while offering long-lasting wear and humidity resistance — without the need for setting sprays or a heavy feel.
With BioTech4 AntiGray, Chemyunion introduced a post-biotic active composed of 98.7% naturally derived ingredients, developed to address hair greying at its source. Rather than masking grey strands, it targets the follicular level to help reactivate the skin’s natural melanin production. It also helps protect melanocytes from oxidative stress, supporting their long-term function.
Expanding this scalp-focused line-up, Mibelle Biochemistry introduced PhytoSpherix Hair, a vegan, COSMOS-approved glycogen derived from non-GMO sweet corn. Validated through in vitro, ex vivo and in vivo testing, it is designed to enhance the intrinsic energy of hair follicles, supporting hair growth while improving density and overall vitality.
3. Multifunctional ingredients for shorter formulas
Against the backdrop of the "skinimalism" trend, the cosmetics industry is increasingly turning to multifunctional solutions that combine sensorial appeal with proven efficacy.
In this context, Expressions Parfumées has developed AgeAura, a patented technology enabling the direct incorporation of anti-ageing actives derived from algae extracts into fragrance concentrates, without altering texture or olfactory signature. The fragrance thus becomes a dual-function ingredient — both olfactory and active — aligned with a “well-ageing” approach. This technology also underpinned the company’s Skin Longevity collection, a skincare line designed around the skin’s circadian rhythm.
Clariant’s "Let True Beauty Glow" formulation concept championed authentic beauty through simple, transparent, and multifunctional formulas. The aim was to reconcile three, at times competing, consumer expectations: the demand for high-performance products, the need for time-efficient routines, and the rise of slow beauty — through formulations that favor lightweight yet highly effective textures.
In this drive toward multifunctionality, Alpol Cosmétiques has drawn on its expertise in sun care with Perfectint SPF50 Serum, a daily treatment available in light and medium shades. Combining SPF50 protection, photoaging prevention, and skin barrier support via 1% ectoin, it also delivers a makeup effect in a fluid texture with a soft, powdery finish. The manufacturer has also introduced the CC Cream SPF50+, an all-in-one formula composed of 70% naturally derived ingredients. It is built around encapsulated tri-pigments, a biomimetic emulsifier, and a blend of powders, delivering a natural, melt-in finish and a “makeup-no-makeup” effect.
4. Microneedling inspirations
Microneedling is a medical technique used to stimulate collagen production, enhance the penetration of active ingredients, and improve skin texture, although it can cause side effects such as redness. Spicules — ultra-fine crystalline structures derived from marine sponges — offer a biological alternative. Naturally embedding themselves in the epidermis upon application, they activate similar mechanisms of gentle exfoliation, cellular renewal, and enhanced ingredient delivery, without the associated drawbacks.
This concept was applied by Alpol Cosmétiques in its Boosting Spicule Shot, a smoothing and firming serum enhanced with BisaCore spicules for an immediate boost in skin activation.
Technature, for its part, offered the Micro-Needle Patch, a fabric-based system incorporating biocompatible, insoluble micro-needles that temporarily create micro-channels in the epidermis, enabling deeper and more efficient delivery of serum actives. Highly customizable, it can include up to 1,200 needles per cm², ranging from 100 to 2,000 microns, and is compatible with all types of serums. It is available in multiple formats targeting the eye contour, face, neck, chin, nasolabial folds and stretch marks.
5. Increasingly natural functional ingredients
Beyond active ingredients, the push toward highly natural formulations has long extended to functional ingredients as well.
Solabia Group won two Gold Awards at the in-cosmetics Global trade show, recognizing its innovations in natural cosmetic ingredients.
ViscoPure, a functional gelling agent created by PolymerExpert (recently acquired by the group), was awarded Best Functional Ingredient. It optimizes the texture, stability, and sensory experience of natural cosmetic formulations, both in skincare and makeup.
In the Make-up Bar category, OleoVeil Care was awarded first place. This high-performance film-forming agent for natural makeup combines a comfortable finish, transfer resistance and long wear with a silky, non-sticky texture. Solabia showcased its versatility through four prototypes: foundation, blush, highlighter and eyeshadow.
