Despite the challenges brought about by Covid-19, leading cosmetic manufacturers, including Mibelle Biochemistry, Cargill Beauty, Givaudan Active Beauty and Lucas Meyer, put forward their most creative innovations for consideration by the in-cosmetics Global Awards jury.

Judged across three categories - Best Active Ingredient, Best Functional Ingredient and Best Green Ingredient - by some of the industry’s foremost experts, the awards recognise the cosmetic ingredient manufacturers who are helping to push the boundaries of innovation, while responding to evolving consumer demands.

The winners were announced yesterday during a virtual ceremony from a list of finalists dominated by skin care ingredients.

Best Active Ingredient Awards

Scooping both the Gold and Silver awards in the Best Active Ingredient category, Vytrus Biotech was recognised for its Kannabia Sense and Deobiome Noni ingredients.

Kannabia Sense took the top accolade. This probiotic treatment stimulates the skin microbiota to produce an in-situ postbiotic cocktail that promotes the synthesis of cutaneous oxytocin. Recommended for use in sensitive skin treatments, anti-ageing cosmetic products and delicate facial treatments, it is made from plant stem cells of Cannabis sativa.

Deobiome Noni is a prebiotic deodorant treatment that reduces the generation of body odour while allowing the skin to breathe and respecting the skin microbiota.

Closing the category, Mibelle Biochemistry and Clariant Active were announced as this year’s joint Bronze Award winners.

Alpine Rose Active, Mibelle Biochemistry’s novel ‘senolytics’ concept, was chosen for its ability to eliminate senescent skin cells and protect skin proteins from oxidative stress.

Clariant Active was applauded for Prenylium. Thanks to Clariant’s Plant Milking technology, Prenylium is extracted from the root of the mulberry tree (Morus Alba) without causing any damage. This innovative and sustainable approach to sourcing helps to stimulate root growth and results in a concentration of prenylated flavonoids 2000% higher than what is typically found in mulberry root extracts.

Best Functional Ingredient Awards

German cosmetic manufacturer Symrise took the top award in the Best Functional Ingredient category for its Symrise SymEffect Sun. Based entirely on renewable raw materials from responsible sources, the new ingredient combines the advantages of conventional sunscreen products with the increasing sustainability requirements of consumers.

Also demonstrating a sustainable approach to sun protection, Dow Chemical was awarded the Silver award for its SunSpheres BIO SPF Booster, a bio-based and readily biodegradable SPF boost that enables greater SPF efficiency in suncare and daily skincare products.

The category also honoured two bronze award winners: Clariant and Gattefossé. The former was awarded for Velsan Flex which, thanks to its high water solubility and Renewable Carbon Index (RCI) of 93%, offers preservation boosting powers together with broad formulation flexibility. Gattefossé’s Emulium Dolcea MB – a natural origin O/W emulsifier - has the ability to create a wider range of textures, from fluid serum to thick butter in a wide range of applications, such as skincare, suncare, make up and haircare.

Green Ingredient Awards

As sustainability continues to drive cosmetic manufacturers to assess the ingredients used in their formulations, this year’s Green Ingredient Award - in partnership with Ecovia Intelligence - recognises the ingredients championing sustainability in the personal care and beauty market.

Henry Lamotte OilsParadise Nut Oil/Magdalena River Nut Oil scooped the Gold Award for its ability to support the regeneration of the skin’s lipid film, while improving the water retention capability of the skin, reducing trans-epidermal water loss.

Unveiled as the Silver Award winner, Cargill Beauty’s FiberDesign Sensation was praised for its approach to sustainability and upcycling. Derived from 100% natural origins, the texturiser and emulsion stabiliser, designed specifically for skincare, is based on citrus peel fibres from the pectin production side stream.

Joining the line-up of award winners, Minasolve SAS scooped the Bronze Award for its A-Leen Aroma-3, a nature-derived perfuming agent that also offers a broad-spectrum antimicrobial effect. It is a 100% natural version of phenylpropanol, it is produced from cassia essential oil.

Cosmetic Ingredients - October 2020

For more information on the latest cosmetic ingredients launches, also read our special issue:

- How far will clean beauty go?

- Interest in upcycled ingredients expected to rise in the cosmetics industry

- Driven by new consumer preferences, demand for cupuaçu butter is on the rise

- in-cosmetics Awards 2020

- Ingredient news: Akott, BASF, Berkem, Clariant, Codif, Covestro, DSM, Firmenich, Givaudaun, Grolman, Imerys, Inter Actifs, Lubrizol, Mibelle, Sederma, Seppic, Silab, Symrise

Read online for free or download the pdf version here.