The 2026 SIMPPAR show demonstrated that innovation no longer only consists in discovering new raw materials, but also in being able to reinvent already existing ones. Molecular fractionation, biotechnology, more environmentally friendly extraction processes, upcycling, new captive molecules... Perfume houses use multiple levers to broaden their palettes and offer brands ever-more distinctive signatures. This race for innovation is reshaping the landscape of perfume creation.
1. Naturalness as an innovation playground
Driven by R&D, perfume houses are reinventing the natural palette to develop differentiating, sometimes exclusive ingredients, and offer brands olfactory signatures trickier to reproduce.
The new natural materials showcased by IFF at the show – four heart fractionated ingredients resulting from LMR Naturals’ expertise – perfectly illustrate this approach. Molecular fractionation gets even closer to the material, according to perfumers’ needs, rubbing out some facets and beautifying others. These innovations generate more impacting ingredients adapted to contemporary narratives. With fractional distillation, Armoise Heart is fresher and fruity, Lavandin Heart unveils a more elegant, less camphoraceous, floral, and coumarinic profile, and Geranium Heart offers fruity, lychee notes. As for Ylang Heart, it takes on a more solar, modern, petal-like character.
Mane shows the same will to renew the natural palette with Elixiris, obtained with cedar and iris coextraction. This new material, already available on the market, can hardly be copied, because it results from a clever mix of fractionation and biotechnology. With Robertet, coconut flesh conversion followed by supercritical CO2 extraction reveals a new, innovative, soluble and clean, 100% pure and natural ingredient: Colada Extract offers tones of grated coconut and pineapple. Other new launches include a supercritical CO2 extract of Tunisian orange blossom, a new process carried out on freshly picked flowers and derived from an exclusive agreement with a partner producer.
As for Capua 1880, they showcased a range of fractionated citrus fruit whose profile varies according to the harvest period, revealing bitter facets in winter and softer, juicier ones in summer. This method helps broaden the citrus palette, while guaranteeing quality consistency all year round.
2. Ever-more sustainable processes
To address ecoresponsibility challenges, perfume houses keep improving their extraction processes and reaffirm their commitments when it comes to sustainable sourcing channels. For example, Robertet developed an organic Santalum Album essential oil, whose Nepalese origin offers an alternative to the overexploitation of this wood in India, while preserving the olfactory DNA of this variety.
Robertet also introduced an absolute of CleanRscent fenugreek. Obtained from roasted fenugreek seeds, this natural material with facets of helichrysum, coffee and maple syrup is extracted using biodegradable volatile solvents.
Generally speaking, perfume houses increasingly select supercritical CO2 extraction because it is less polluting than hexane. Biolandes, for instance, showcased a supercritical CO2 extraction of oud wood derived from a CITES-certified supply chain based on an agroforestry model with regular tree replanting. With CO2 extraction, they obtain a less animal-like profile with balmy tones that can be perceived from top to base notes. Also, Robertet developed a beautiful, alcohol-soluble roasted sesame CO2 extract offering a gourmand profile of roasted, slightly caramelized hazelnut.
3. Revealing new facets
Following its Firgood® extract, dsm-firmenich broadened its catalogue with another strawberry extract, this time derived from SFE extraction. Obtained from CO2-extracted whole fruits, it is distinctive in that its profile is particularly true to the fresh fruit, with juicy, jam-like facets. Another signature ingredient recently placed on the market is Firad Apple, which is derived from a cold concentration process based on the adsorption of odorous molecules onto a resin, followed by recovery through alcohol desorption. The result evokes a fresh, juicy, sweet apple with a slight Calvados effect.
As for Capua 1880, they introduced several new ingredients obtained from aqueous phases derived from food-processing methods, following upcycling principles. For almond (with hints of Amaretto), the raw material comes from the water retrieved from almond milk pasteurization. The odorous compounds are then concentrated using technology combining polar and non-polar resins. The ingredients developed with this technology also include a fresh, aqueous, green cucumber, and liquorice with a very sweet, candy-like effect and slightly “burnt” undertones.
As for synthetic materials, several captive molecules were recently released to meet regulatory requirements, in particular with lily of the valley (Lyral). Symrise highlighted Magnolila, a biodegradable molecule with a fresh, floral profile composed of lily of the valley, lilac, rose, and herbaceous notes. dsm-firmenich has developed Josenol, an IFRA-compatible ingredient with floral, powdery notes. The company also unveiled the Heliotropin Base, a modern reinterpretation of the molecule which may be restricted by IFRA. Designed for functional perfumes, 100% biodegradable, and of natural origin, it reveals powdery/mimosa and almond facets.
To reproduce the effects of Galaxolide, now banned by IFRA, IFF showcased Orionide Oliffac, a musk base with clean, unctuous, floral facets. Another example is Pomarina, a fruity captive molecule with apple and pear accents, which brings out the diffusion of top and heart notes, and Luminide, a renewable, vegan musk with a bright, powdery profile.
Between molecular fractionation, biotechnology, new sustainable sourcing channels and captive molecules designed to meet regulatory requirements, the innovations showcased at SIMPPAR reflect a shared ambition: broaden the perfumer’s palette with ingredients that are more effective, more distinctive, and more environmentally friendly.
