As anticipated, the latest edition of the in-cosmetics trade show, which was held on 16-18 April in Paris, has been the most successful ever. According to Reed Exhibitions, the organisers of the event, more than 9,400 unique visitors - a 20% increase on the previous record for visitor numbers - came to Paris to discover new ingredients, formulations and an extensive educational programme. More than 650 exhibitors packed the show floor, including over 100 companies who had never been to an in-cosmetics event before.

Dr Karl Lintner and Induchem come out on top

Innovation was celebrated at the show in an awards ceremony at the end of the first day. Induchem’s new ingredient Neodermyl® was selected as the winner of the in-cosmetics’ Innovation Zone Best Ingredient Award, recognised for it efficacy and scientific grounding. Silver prize went to Symrise with SymHair® Force 1631, a natural anti-hair loss active, whilst BiotechMarine was awarded bronze for its new anti-dandruff ingredient, Esculane®.

Furthermore, Dr Karl Lintner was announced as the winner of in-cosmetics Lifetime Achievement Award.

Natural ingredients more than ever at the forefront

The fact that the three winners of the in-cosmetics’ Innovation Zone Best Ingredient Award be natural ingredients or of natural origin (Neodermyl® is an active coming from biotechnology, made of a new derivative of glucose combined with amino acids and copper) illustrates brands’ always growing interest in natural actives.

In order to address this demand, ingredient suppliers continue to consolidate their positions in the sector. Thus, the 2013 edition of in-cosmetics has been preceded by the acquisition, earlier this year, of BiotechMarine, a supplier of marine actives based in Brittany, by SEPPIC, a subsidiary of Air Liquide, or the acquisition of CRM (Cosmetic Raw Materials) International, a French based manufacturer of natural ingredients for the personal care industry, by Clariant. And, most recently, Lucas Meyer Cosmetics (Unipex group), announced the acquisition of Australian company Southern Cross Botanicals.

Historical players in the natural segment are not lagging behind, as it is illustrated by Silab’s opening of a third production unit at the end of 2012, and the recent certification of five of its ingredients to the Cosmos standard.

High performance

However, having to cope with an increasing competitive pressure - also from related areas such as cosmetic surgery and dermatological procedures - cosmetic brands are simultaneously demanding ever more powerful ingredients. Therefore, natural solutions proposed by ingredient suppliers must be at least as effective as the traditional actives.

Through very extensive claims, the 2013 edition of in-cosmetics thus unveiled he great potential of natural actives.

The ingredients innovations listed in’s special issue on cosmetic ingredients are a good illustration of this trend.

The next in-cosmetics take place in Hamburg, Germany 1-3 April 2014.