Follow us twitter facebook
Edition: Global
Click here to subscribe toour free weekly newsletter click here
Ingredients & formulation

Mibelle Biochemistry bets on a moss-derived active to enhance skin cells’ resilience

Mibelle Biochemistry won the Gold award for the most innovative cosmetic active at the latest in-cosmetics Global show in Amsterdam On this occasion, the Swiss-based company presented a new anti-ageing target and a new sustainable botanical resource.

Mibelle Biochemistry scooped the gold innovation award for the best active ingredient at in-cosmetics Global for MossCellTec No.1 [1], an active ingredient based on two main innovations:

  • A novel anti-aging concept, the cell nucleus health.
  • A new ingredient source, a biotechnologically produced botanical moss.

Botanical sustainable resource

MossCellTec No 1 is based on the protonema culture of the moss Physcomitrella patens, a common moss in the Northern Hemisphere that can mainly be found in open fields.

Mosses were the first plants to conquer the land about 470 million years ago. They used their extraordinary adaptation abilities to survive from the prehistoric age until today,” explains Mibelle in a release. “Mosses are able to trap excess water and nutrients from the soil, air and rain by acting like a sponge. They are able to tolerate long periods of desiccation where they stop their metabolism. Since mosses filter all of the necessary nutrients from the air and rain they also accumulate air pollution particles such as heavy metals. In order not to poison themselves, mosses have a large set of antioxidants to mitigate the effects of accumulating toxic compounds.

These properties may explain why more that forty species of mosses are used in traditional medicine, in particular for reducing inflammation or the pain linked to insect bites.

However, mosses being difficult to collect in a sustainable way in the natural environment, Mibelle has developed a technology that enables the large scale cultivation of moss cells in sterile conditions. Cells from Physcomitrella patens were harvested and cultivated in the protenoma stage (germinating spore). Finally, in order to obtain the MossCellTec No.1 cosmetic ingredient, the resulting extract was carefully sprayed on a powder based on isomalt. The process only requires a small quantity of plant material.

Cell nucleus function

According to Mibelle Biochemistry, the active enhances the cell nucleus function to fortify the skin. Extensive studies showed that MossCellTec No. 1 activates the lamin A gene responsible for the nuclear envelope structure and the nuclear transport gene RanBP17. Both genes are down-regulated in aged keratinocytes. As a consequence, according to Mibelle, “MossCellTec No. 1 supports the skin’s adaptation to climatic stresses in vitro and in vivo.

Furthermore, adds Mibelle, “MossCellTec No.1 strengthens skin against urban aggressors and climatic changes and improves the hydration, barrier and homogeneity of the skin after just two weeks.

This new anti-aging concept based on an innovative and sustainable cell culture seems to perfectly matches current’s demand for powerful natural ingredients. Mintel recently stressed that biotechnologies would become one of the main sources of innovation for sustainable natural ingredients in the cosmetics industry.

Vincent Gallon

Footnotes

[1] INCI name : Phytol (and) Isomalt (and) Aqua/Water

© 2018 - Premium Beauty News - www.premiumbeautynews.com
latest news
Focus

Édition Spéciale by Luxe Pack unveils its program

Édition Spéciale by Luxe Pack, the first exhibition dedicated to environmental-friendly packaging solutions, will be held on June 4 and 5, 2019 at the Carreau du Temple in Paris, France, during the European Sustainable Development Week. With two months left until the event, the organizers have unveiled the main features of the program, (...)

read more
job opportunities
Experts’ views
Emotional Glyco-intelligence: deciphering sugars through unexplored dimensions

Aïna Queiroz
Emotional Glyco-intelligence: deciphering sugars through unexplored dimensions

It is pretty hard to escape from the first clear signs: the cosmetics industry is definitely, officially entering the emotional era! And it keeps searching for more rationality to substantiate arguments about ingredients, formulas, objective skin beauty and emotionality. Keen to offer multifunctional ingredients that can keep up with (...)

read more

Features

We use cookies to give you a better browsing experience. By continuing your visit to this site, you accept the use of cookies. Read more and set cookies
close