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Ingredients & formulation

Mibelle Biochemistry bets on a moss-derived active to enhance skin cells’ resilience

Mibelle Biochemistry won the Gold award for the most innovative cosmetic active at the latest in-cosmetics Global show in Amsterdam On this occasion, the Swiss-based company presented a new anti-ageing target and a new sustainable botanical resource.

Mibelle Biochemistry scooped the gold innovation award for the best active ingredient at in-cosmetics Global for MossCellTec No.1 [1], an active ingredient based on two main innovations:

  • A novel anti-aging concept, the cell nucleus health.
  • A new ingredient source, a biotechnologically produced botanical moss.

Botanical sustainable resource

MossCellTec No 1 is based on the protonema culture of the moss Physcomitrella patens, a common moss in the Northern Hemisphere that can mainly be found in open fields.

Mosses were the first plants to conquer the land about 470 million years ago. They used their extraordinary adaptation abilities to survive from the prehistoric age until today,” explains Mibelle in a release. “Mosses are able to trap excess water and nutrients from the soil, air and rain by acting like a sponge. They are able to tolerate long periods of desiccation where they stop their metabolism. Since mosses filter all of the necessary nutrients from the air and rain they also accumulate air pollution particles such as heavy metals. In order not to poison themselves, mosses have a large set of antioxidants to mitigate the effects of accumulating toxic compounds.

These properties may explain why more that forty species of mosses are used in traditional medicine, in particular for reducing inflammation or the pain linked to insect bites.

However, mosses being difficult to collect in a sustainable way in the natural environment, Mibelle has developed a technology that enables the large scale cultivation of moss cells in sterile conditions. Cells from Physcomitrella patens were harvested and cultivated in the protenoma stage (germinating spore). Finally, in order to obtain the MossCellTec No.1 cosmetic ingredient, the resulting extract was carefully sprayed on a powder based on isomalt. The process only requires a small quantity of plant material.

Cell nucleus function

According to Mibelle Biochemistry, the active enhances the cell nucleus function to fortify the skin. Extensive studies showed that MossCellTec No. 1 activates the lamin A gene responsible for the nuclear envelope structure and the nuclear transport gene RanBP17. Both genes are down-regulated in aged keratinocytes. As a consequence, according to Mibelle, “MossCellTec No. 1 supports the skin’s adaptation to climatic stresses in vitro and in vivo.

Furthermore, adds Mibelle, “MossCellTec No.1 strengthens skin against urban aggressors and climatic changes and improves the hydration, barrier and homogeneity of the skin after just two weeks.

This new anti-aging concept based on an innovative and sustainable cell culture seems to perfectly matches current’s demand for powerful natural ingredients. Mintel recently stressed that biotechnologies would become one of the main sources of innovation for sustainable natural ingredients in the cosmetics industry.

Vincent Gallon

Footnotes

[1] INCI name : Phytol (and) Isomalt (and) Aqua/Water

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