Traditionally used by the food industry for their juice and sugar, bilberries are also an amazing source of anthocyanidins extracted from the pulp and fruit skin for the supplement and pharma industries. “Furthermore, the tiny seeds of the berries contain up to 20% of linoleic acid (omega-6) and α-linolenic acid (omega-3) in an optimal ratio; these compounds being both known for their capabilities to improve hydration and skin barrier functionality,” explains Givaudan Active Beauty in a statement.

Upcycling process

Building on the growing interest of consumers for waste reduction and local supply chains, the supplier of cosmetic actives has produced this new ingredient through an upcycled process. Once the fruits have been squeezed the extract the juice, the seeds are separated from the pulp. Then, the active ingredient is crafted by a supercritical CO2 extraction procedure.

According to Givaudan Active Beauty, as waste reduction is a new sustainable standard today, cosmetic products containing recycled or upcycled ingredients are appealing to 69% of consumers, mostly in Brazil (80%) and China (74%) [1]. “Consumers are ready to go forward, pushing upcycling beauty products as a top trend for the years to come, without compromising the main needs of their skin protection,” said the company.

Topical soothing agent

The efficacy of Omegablue has been shown in surfactant-induced depletion during clinical tests. According to Givaudan Active Beauty, the treated area has completely restored the skin barrier function after three days from the damage.

Omegablue is also significantly performant on chronic inflammation challenged skin (psoriasis) as it significantly decreases erythema severity, down to 27%, and scales formation by 28% in four weeks. Even better results are shown on eczema challenged skin condition as erythema severity decreased by 37.5% and itch rating by 42.8%. Additionally, the PASI (Psoriasis Area Severity Score) and EASI (Eczema Area Severity Score) are markedly ameliorated by 27% and 35% respectively.

Omegablue was developed as a topical soothing agent for sensitive and damaged skin. It effectively calms skin discomfort in a transient or curative way and contains sebum-like essential fatty acids forming a protective barrier from external agents,” highlighted Giada Maramaldi, Personal Care Category Manager at Givaudan Active Beauty.

Shower oil

To illustrate the potential of Omegablue in skin and body care applications, Givaudan Active Beauty has formulated a shower oil dubbed S.O. Smooth, with a light and silk texture. Enriched with chia oil, a natural ingredient that gently nourishes the skin, the product “restores and maintains the skin barrier to bring the skin back to its comfort zone.

Omegablue is part of the Givaudan Active Beauty’s upcycling collection launched in October 2020. This collection includes eight other functional ingredients in various categories. Among others, the collection includes Koffee’Up, a coffee oil designed as an alternative to argan oil.