Cosmetic 360, the trade show dedicated to cosmetic innovation, brought together around 4,000 visitors and more than 200 exhibitors on October 12 and 13, 2022 at the Carrousel du Louvre in Paris, France.

Reduction of the global carbon footprint, shorter supply chain circuits, innovative supply chains, improved waste management, reduction of transport and packaging pollution: this year, cosmetic makers were the best supporters of more responsible models.

Waterless cosmetics

At a time when the impact of water consumption linked to cosmetic products is a major issue for our industry, with global warming heaping added pressure on freshwater resources, anhydrous formulations were ubiquitous, coming in several formats, such as powders, sticks, and tablets.

ABC Texture, for instance, showcased a reinvented cushion wby remonving the applicator thanks to a memory shape anhydrous texture free from silicone. With a natural origin index of at least 97%, the formula offers a soft focus powder effect.

Global Beauty Consulting, which had presented at Luxe Pack Monaco, an anti-aging serum in a stick, in partnership with Superga Beauty and Cosmogen, this time explored the potential of powders for the formulation of anhydrous make-up products.

Inavive Lab launched an eco-designed solid sunscreen free from water and chemical filters. The formula protects the marine environment and is suitable for the whole family from the age of three. The format is less bulky than liquid sunscreens and avoids generating plastic waste.

Marie Pratt Cosmetics highlighted their solid sunscreen stick (SPF30) free from chemical filters. The 100% natural formula is non-greasy and streak-free upon application and is suitable for cardboard packaging.

As for Laboratoires Paris Dôme, a new complete range of solid cosmetics was in the spotlight: wet powder, dry powder, cold saponification, hot pouring, soluble micellar water or shower gel, a shampoo stick, soluble skin cream, etc.

Lyophitech presented its freeze-drying solution designed to support manufacturers. The technology transforms plant extracts and formulations into tablets that are easy to handle and dose.

Nuwen put the spotlight the focus was on a new format of cleansing gel: a soluble tablet allowing to reduce packaging without impacting the sensory qualities of the product. Its minimalistic and highly nature-based formula contains only essential ingredients and sulfate-free surfactants for an excellent foaming effect.

The must-see product at Technature was a hand cleanser formulation in the form of solid beads that melt when they come into contact with water and transform into a cleansing foam. Two of them are enough to clean one’s hands.

Technature also presents a hydrogel stick formulated with red algae. Its ultra-fresh film-forming effect allows quick and targeted application to the eye contour area.

Upcycled formulas

Upcycling confirmed to be a fast-growing trend in cosmetics,.

For instance, Alpol Cosmétique has shown with its new Upcycl’Care range, that it is possible to formulate skincare products with upcycled ingredients that are not limited to active ingredients.

Portugal’s HPRD (Health Products Research and Development) showcased an exfoliant using the cherry pits upcycled from by-products of the food industry.

For its part, JRS Rettenmaier showcased a series of minimalist formulas, free from surfactants and fragrances, and very pleasing to the senses, based on apple by-products for highly recycled natural cosmetics.

Eventually, Sarbec Cosmetics debuted a 100% natural cream enriched with upcycled “hyperactive” pomegranate with a soft and melting texture for day-to-day skincare.