In response to both market needs and the short formula trend, Expressions Parfumées showcased its patent-pending AgeAura technology at the in-cosmetics Global show in Paris. Through this technique, a fragrance concentrate can act as an integral anti-aging active.

“It is a disruptive innovation, the first fully active perfume that can be used as a substitute for a combination of traditional actives,” explains Marketing & Communications Director Marie-Eugénie Bouge.

AgeAura’s bioactivity is based on an integrated mixture of two brown algae extracts, Ascophyllum nodosum and Fucus serratus, known for their ability to inhibit certain enzymes involved in skin aging. This exclusive, deodorized mixture is made to measure by a partner. It targets elastase and collagenase, which act on the skin structure and firmness, as well as tyrosinase, which is responsible for the pigment spots associated with hyperpigmentation, and it also stimulates the antioxidant activity (ABTS).

“It is a 2-in-1 fragrance which meets all the usual expectations for a skincare perfume, i.e. hedonism, performance and sensoriality. It is also compatible with all the scent constraints imposed by our clients, and at the same time, it provides anti-aging bioactivity at the same doses as a standard fragrance. We guarantee a product both absolutely efficient at the usual doses, and deeply sensorial, in line with the brand’s DNA,” says Development & Innovation Director Jennifer Buzzi.

To demonstrate bioactivity, Expressions Parfumées conducted in vitro tests that determined AgeAura’s action on four key skin aging markers. At 0.5% in the finished product, inhibition on firmness markers is as high as 92%, and at 1%, it reaches 100% in all criteria.

Efficacy was also validated by clinical studies conducted on a panel of women aged 42 to 69. At 1% of perfume in a cream applied for 56 days, superficial spots are significantly reduced in 64% of participants. In addition, skin elasticity significantly improves after 28 days in 75% of them. Ultimately, in 83% of participants, skin is smoother and revitalized, and 74% observe reduced wrinkles and improved firmness.

The Longevity collection, a circadian routine

To exemplify the potential of AgeAura, Expressions Parfumées developed the Longevity collection, which is structured based on the skin’s circadian rhythm. This comprehensive routine is composed of three face care and two body care products.

“The collection is in line with the well-aging trend; it beautifies the face and body. Of course, it targets mature skins, but it can also be used as a preventive routine, to delay signs of loss of elasticity, pigment spots, and all the elements related to an environmental context that is negative for the skin. Based on the circadian cycle, which gives rhythm to and governs skin functions, it provides the strong ability to regenerate at night and protect during the day,” explains Bouge.

Accordingly, the night face routine offers a repair action with the serum Lumicell Night, which uses patented technology Sleepwell, a scented composition developed based on neuroscientific data to facilitate falling asleep. In addition, the lifting balm Neuroskin Infusion, inspired from the Ridoki massage techniques, combines redensifying actives and a neurosensorial experience. When it comes to the body, the serum Hydratense offers smoother and firmer skin.

During the day, the boosting serum Meso Lift+, inspired from dermo-aesthetic meso-peeling techniques, promises a radiant, revitalized-looking face. And Firm Gold, a glistening body serum, combines AgeAura and the Escentsual technology, which intensifies the perception of sensuality.

In line with the promise, the olfactory signature of perfumer Laurence Leon is in harmony with skin’s natural rhythms, with dynamic, highly technical notes for the day, and rich, sensorial accords for the night.

“The fragrance is part of the sensorial experience. Thanks to AgeAura, brands can leverage full benefits: in the absence of actives that could be smelly, which means their smell would have to be concealed, the olfactory signature can remain completely true to their DNA,” concludes Bouge.