Renowned for its bold and characterful fragrances, highly appreciated across the Middle East, Eurofragance expands its palette with a new proprietary perfumery ingredient. With phenolic and animal notes reminiscent of castoreum, Olivante incorporates several of the olfactory characteristics prized in the region’s signature compositions, such as mukhallats.
Delivering opulence
While it perfectly aligns with Middle Eastern olfactory preferences, Olivante can also lend new depth and character to the iconic notes of Western perfumery.
Eurofragance perfumers, who have been formulating with this innovative captive ingredient, state that with the inclusion of Olivante, fruity notes become richer, gourmand notes more delightful and delectable, and certain white floral notes more intense. Made from olive residual matter, following oil extraction, Olivante does not have an oily smell.
“In recent years we have seen how consumers in the West have opened up to Middle Eastern perfumery. Powerful notes of leather and oud have gained consumer acceptance well beyond the Gulf Region. Olivante is multi-faceted and offers some of these olfactive aspects that are now appreciated across geographies,” said Belén Garcia, Master Perfumer at Eurofragance.
Carefully upcycled
For its fourth proprietary raw material, Eurofragance collaborated with a key player in the olive oil industry that upcycles olive residues into various byproducts.
Because different varieties of olives generate different odorant residues, Felipe San Juan, R&D Manager Ingredients and Fragrance Performance, and Magdalena Rey, Technical Perfumer, both at Eurofragance, spent months scouring the Spanish countryside searching for the variety of olive with the right concentration of the desired volatiles and precursors.
Working over two years with a waste management engineer, they perfected the ideal base material, which Eurofragance subsequently transformed and purified using a sustainable, multi-step process.
“Olivante cannot be made from any random olive pulp. Terroir and climate from a very specific region of Spain are key to this project. Then we applied our scientific expertise to characterize and separate the essential odorant molecules needed to develop a desirable captive ingredient,” emphasized San Juan.
In addition to proposing a new olfactive experience, this natural ingredient could also appeal to brands looking to offer their consumers products with a sustainability story.
“Olivante stands out for its ability to offer perfume richness, or opulence, in a manner that is fresher and less heavy. And, it’s not just intended for fine fragrances. Our initial trials formulating personal care and home fragrancing products with Olivante are promising and we feel that this a proprietary ingredient with strong potential for broader market adoption,” added Sine Guçetil, Global Marketing Director at Eurofragance.
Olivante, which is currently under patent review, adds up to the three other proprietary fragrance ingredients developed by Eurofragance: L’Âme du Bois, another original upcycled olfactive molecule; Verdenix, a cross-functional ingredient dedicated to neutralising unpleasant odors and derived from the revalorization of production waste from another ingredient; and Euphorion, a synthetic ingredient that acts in particular on emotional perception.
