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Innovation & new products

“Make-up is turning green and increasingly efficient,” Luisa Oliva

Premium Beauty News talked to Luisa Oliva, international consultant in make-up formulation about the latest innovations and trends spotted at MakeUp in Los Angeles, Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna and in-cosmetics Global in the colour cosmetics category.

Luisa Oliva

Luisa Oliva

Premium Beauty News - How the colour cosmetics category is transforming itself?

Luisa Oliva - We can see that natural is a key concept in make-up formulations today. As seen at the in-cosmetics Global tradeshow, which was held in Paris last in April, a more sustainable approach is being developed all throughout the ingredients portfolios. Companies are moving into natural products with a focus on efficiency. The innovations allow for extreme results and high performances of the finish product.

Premium Beauty News - As far as ingredients are concerned, what were the main innovations showcased at in-cosmetics Global?

Luisa Oliva - Some ingredients improve make-up formulations and other make them more sustainable, such as Seppic’s Hydralixir. The company has extracted cellular water from a collection of algae collected in Brittany, France. The algae are already engaged in an existing industrial exploitation, their water is extracted using a gentle drying and energy-saving technology. This clean water allows to lower the carbon footprint in cosmetics.

Stéarinerie Dubois has developed esters that offer a natural alternative to non-volatile silicones (DUB OE HP for D5 et DUB So Green for Dimethicone) under the INCIs: ethyl oleate and ethyl olivate. They offer good spreading and boost formula emolience and also boost hydration with a silicon like feel on the skin.

Myoshi Europe has developed a film forming agent from plant origin. It offers high adhesion and flexibility with high hydrophobicity. Compatible with most usual oils compounds, it also improves colour dispersion. It is Cosmos Organic Ecocert certified.

Clariant’s Plantasens Flash 80 [1] is a lightweight emollient, fast spreading, very satin. It’s an alternative to light emollient such as D5 to give weightless textures. Ideal for skin care, hair care, make up, deodorant.

Naturex showcased Natcolor [2] a range of natural colorants and pigments extracted from plants, with colours ranging from Red, Orange, Yellow, Brown, Green, Pink to Black.

Premium Beauty News - As far as formulations are concerned, you also identified several interesting innovations at MakeUp in Los Angeles and Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna?

Luisa Oliva - Innovation in this area is propelled by sub-contractors such as Intercos. The Italian leading supplier of makeup formulations has developed a 3D powder, using their in-house Prisma technology. Dubbed Obsession Highlighter the product contains a high level of nacre providing it with very soft and interesting sensorial features. It is very smooth and creamy even in a 3D for a press powder. Visually speaking, nacre helps to highlight the 3D shape of the product.

Intercos has also developed a patented lip stick with a 3D effect surface featuring several geometrical effects with a creamy texture. The technology offers an infinite range of possible shapes.

As far as lipsticks are concerned, Weckerle has also developed a new technology allowing the insertion of 3D effect inside the lipstick within three different layers. It means you can have up to five different colours or textures in a single lipstick. The lipstick has two concentric layers on the outside and three layers on the inside. The 3D effect appears inside the lipstick while using it.

A new jumbo stick for the eyes with metallic effect was also developed by Weckerle. It offers a long lasting and intense effect in a very cream and light formula.

Beukay showed a peel-off eyeliner with a nacre topcoat. While the eyeliner has dried, the nacre top-coat can be applied, with more or less intensity depending on the application.

IL Cosmetics launched two innovations for make-up removers. A lip-tint remover that helps removing all traces of colour. Indeed, tinting products have a long-lasting and dry effect that can prove hard to remove. The remover which comes with a lip-applicator helps gently dissolve any colour on the lips. The Luxembourg-based company has also launched a waterproof-mascara-remover. It is applied on the lashes with a specific brush and is easily removed with a cotton pad. It gently cares for the eyes while removing sticky formulas.

Premium Beauty News - Ethical beauty is also a rising trend, isn’t it?

Luisa Oliva - Yes, in particular when we speak about clean, natural and vegan beauty. Pascual Cosmétiques, for instance, has developed a lipstick only featuring so-called “clean ingredients”. It has a smooth texture and easy application and offers great sensorial characteristics. The formula is claimed to be free from silicones and without ingredients derived from petroleum.

Ancorotti has launched a lip marker (actually a long-lasting lipstick) with an intense colour in a vegan formula.

Faber Castell has launched Pure and Pure2 Beauty its own clean cosmetics seals which guarantee that the textures are formulated without identified controversial ingredients PLUS vegan and natural, and free from D5, silicones, Fragrance, etc. The range of 12 different colour cosmetic pencils, with high performance and rich pigments, is designed for the eyes and the lips.

Interview by Éva Lagarde



[2] INCI: CI + Beta carotene or CI + Carmine etc. Natural colorant and pigments from plant. Red Red Orange, Orange, Yellow, Brown, Green, Pink, Black. Some references are Cosmos approuved.


  • Seppic
  • IL Cosmetics
  • IL Cosmetics
  • Faber Castell has launched Pure and Pure2 Beauty
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