An essential ingredient in long-lasting make-up, isododecane was historically derived from petrochemicals. However, French biotech company Global Bioenergies has successfully developed an innovative technology for converting plant resources (sugar and starch residues, agricultural and forestry waste), into isobutene, one of the main petroleum derivatives, and then to transform it into isododecane.

Six months after releasing its first batch of naturally sourced isododecane, Global Bioenergies has finished producing and released a second batch of the innovative ingredient to be marketed from 2022 under the name Isonaturane® 12.

Long lasting natural lipsticks

Part of the batch will be used to produce lips range of the LAST brand, which was recently launched by the company to illustrate the potentialities of its ingredient. Scheduled to be launched this autumn in addition, the new range will complement the eyes range launched last spring and available at www.colors-that-last.com.

Thanks to the naturally sourced isododecane, LAST’s lips range will offer fourteen shades of a long-wear liquid lipstick comprising over 90% natural ingredients and delivering the same performance as the top products on the market.

Production of the new range has just started in the Lyon factory of MS BeautiLab, one of the largest cosmetics manufacturers in Europe, whom Global Bioenergies had already entrusted with the industrialisation and production of the eyes line last spring.

"We plan to launch other products in 2022, with the same intention of using our innovative ingredient to bring naturalness to product categories where it is not yet present,” explains Marc Delcourt, co-founder and CEO of Global Bioenergies.

Sampling

Beyond the making of the lips range by MS BeautiLab, the second batch of naturally sourced isododecane will also be used to serve the numerous cosmetic industry players who have requested sampling.

Since the beginning of the year, we have received more than 40 unsolicited requests from cosmetic companies (brands, manufacturers and distributors). Further to discussions now well underway, we will provide samples to interested parties before we start delivering commercial volumes from 2022 onwards. This innovative ingredient will radically increase the level of naturalness in long-wear make-up, without compromising on performance. It will also be used in dermo-cosmetics and hair care,” said Florence Thueux, Global Bioenergies Chief Business Officer.

Scaling up production

To meet the demand, Global Bioenergies is reorganising its production to allow rapid scale-up of Isonaturane 12 deliveries over the next years. In particular, an industrial production unit is currently under construction at the Pomacle-Bazancourt site and will combine with upstream and downstream industrial subcontractors. This new unit will produce enough Isonaturane® 12 to manufacture around 10 million units of longwear, natural make-up by 2022, the first year of operation.