Isododecane is a key ingredient in the cosmetics market. The substance is used for its emollient properties in a large number of skin care and hair treatment products. It is also a major ingredient in long-lasting makeup products, such as waterproof mascaras or long-lasting liquid lipsticks. It provides the long-lasting performance, no transfer and waterproof effects, while maintaining optimal comfort. According to Global Bioenergies, isododecane can represent up to 50% of the formulations belonging to these categories.

While the long-lasting make-up segment already weights around 25% of the global makeup market, this ingredient was only sourced from petrochemicals. Until now!

Derived from agricultural resources

Thanks to this technological breakthrough, the entire long-lasting make-up segment might get rid from petroleum resources. For producing this renewable isododecane, Global Bioenergies relied on their proprietary innovative technology for converting plant resources (sugar and starch residues, agricultural and forestry waste), into isobutene, one of the main petroleum derivatives. Then, after several steps respecting the naturalness criteria specific to the cosmetics market, isobutene was converted into isododecane.

This first batch of cosmetic-grade isododecane undergone about fifteen analyses, carried out by specialized and independent experts. All the tests confirmed the high level of purity of the product as well as its compliance with technical specifications defined during toxicological studies conducted by the company in 2020. These analyses led to the release of the batch for commercial use,” the company explains in a statement.

This important step could allow long-lasting make-up to reach levels of naturalness above 90%. "Without any compromise on performance", according to Marc Delcourt, co-founder and CEO of Global Bioenergies.

Towards a new brand launch

To demonstrate the value of this innovation, Global Bioenergies plans to create their own beauty brand. To carry out this project, the company created an ad hoc committee inspired by Romain Desfresnes, an ex-Coty and ex-Dior executive, who brought together experts from the various field of expertise required for new project development in the cosmetics field.

We have put performance at the heart of our offer: we have succeeded in combining the ultra-sensorial textures and colour intensity with a high rate of naturalness (between 90 and 99%), in 2.0 make-up products with a high long-lasting, no transfer and comfort performances, matching with the best market standards. Our unique approach ‘from biotech to beauty’ will enable us to respond to consumers, who are always more eco-conscious when making their purchases," underlines Romain Desfresnes.

Around 300,000 product units can be produced using this first batch of isododecane.