“Returning from consulting and investing to an operational role accountable to shareholders was a gamble,” admits Karine Melloul. Eighteen months later, it’s one that has paid off. A chemical engineer by training, Melloul previously worked at Solvay and L’Oréal, where she led open innovation programs. Today, she has steered the Franco-Swiss manufacturer back onto a growth trajectory.
When Karine Melloul joined MS Beautilab in early 2024, the company was in the midst of a major reorganization. Following a period of strategic realignment, it refocused on its core expertise — emulsions, powders, and lipsticks — and on its historic formulation sites. In this context, the CEO has been consolidating production centers in France and Switzerland while optimizing costs through the group’s filling site in the Czech Republic. The result: a more streamlined and agile operating model.
Hybrid products
"Our makeup and hybrid product expertise center is in Lyon, while our skincare and ingredients hub is located in Switzerland, near Lausanne," explains Karine Melloul. "We have made a strong comeback in the powder business, both pressed and loose, while reinforcing our leadership in lipsticks and complexion products," she continues.
For certain specific production or filling operations, MS Beautilab can also call on its network of partners based in Europe, the US, and Asia. "They are strategic allies, who provide us with capacity and agility."
MS Beautilab serves a balanced client base of large groups and indie brands, while also relying on a few carefully selected startups. “Some clients turn to us for our precision and strong industrial network, while others appreciate our agility and dedicated support. Our solutions cater to brands in search of truly exceptional formulations,” says the CEO.
With annual growth of 5 to 10%, MS Beautilab aims to quickly pass the 50 million mark. To fuel its growth, the company is focusing in particular on accelerating its sales across the Atlantic and innovating in hybrid solutions.
“We are among the few in the industry to master both color cosmetics and skincare. Hybrid innovation is part of our DNA,” emphasizes Karine Melloul.
A leading player in complexion and lip care, MS Beautilab excels in hot-pour techniques as well as emulsions across all categories. In skincare, the company is recognized for its effective formulas that deliver results without compromising on sensorial experience.
“This cross-functional expertise is invaluable in a market where makeup is evolving into skincare, and skincare is increasingly tinted.”
French touch
Under the leadership of its new CEO, the company is accelerating its international expansion, particularly in the United States, where it has a sales office on the East Coast.
“We combine our Franco-Swiss expertise with a deep understanding of local expectations,” explains Karine Melloul. “We collaborate with both leading brands and emerging names seeking innovative formulas. It’s a demanding market, but highly receptive to hybrid products — and the growth potential is significant.”
While Europe remains the company’s main base, the American market already accounts for more than 20% of revenue.
Despite the U.S. tightening its stance on imports, Karine Melloul remains confident that the demand for exceptional expertise will persist. “The French touch hasn’t had its last word, and ‘Made in Switzerland’ remains a reliable benchmark,” she says. “The ability to combine cutting-edge technologies with natural ingredients to create formulas that deliver both sensorial pleasure and proven effectiveness is not something that can be improvised — it’s the result of decades of accumulated expertise.”
The executive takes a measured view of K-Beauty competition. “Korean companies were pioneers in sensoriality and in developing skincare routines. They also offered very successful high-SPF products. But today, we have nothing to envy in terms of sensoriality and effectiveness — and we are even stronger when it comes to naturalness.”
According to her, K-Beauty’s strength lies primarily in its skincare culture. “Koreans don’t just develop a product — they create a coherent routine around an ingredient or a story. It’s inspiring, but we have all the assets to support this strong appetite for K-Beauty and to elevate it!”
