Premium Beauty News - Why did you choose Paris to establish your new R&D laboratory, and how does this project fit into Proya’s international strategy?
Hou Juncheng - The opening of this laboratory is part of our “Double Ten” strategy, unveiled last year, which aims to make Proya one of the world’s ten leading beauty companies within the next ten years.
Paris is a major international hub for fashion and cosmetics. Establishing a presence here will enable us to strengthen our relationships with suppliers and manufacturers of cosmetic ingredients, while bringing us closer to the wider European beauty ecosystem.
The industry is evolving very rapidly, with innovations and technologies emerging every year. To remain competitive, we need to step up our exchanges with international partners and identify scientific advances that can help us enhance our products.
Premium Beauty News - What will be the main missions of the Paris laboratory?
Hou Juncheng - Proya currently operates three R&D centers: two in China, in Hangzhou Longwu and Shanghai, and a third in France, where we have just opened a fully equipped laboratory.
Our R&D center in Hangzhou Longwu covers all our product categories, including skincare and makeup. Its work spans both fundamental and applied research in ingredients, formulation, product safety and efficacy. The Shanghai center focuses on hair care and the scalp microbiome.
The laboratory at the European Innovation Center in Suresnes has a complementary role. It will give us closer access to European innovations, particularly in cosmetic ingredients and technologies, and help us identify new research opportunities to enrich our product development. Our aim is to combine the expertise of our teams in China with the scientific and technological knowledge available in Europe to develop products that are increasingly relevant to Chinese consumers and international markets alike.
Premium Beauty News - How will you organize collaborations with French and European experts in cosmetic science?
Hou Juncheng - Our approach will go beyond commercial partnerships with ingredient suppliers. We also intend to assess their research and innovations and develop joint projects with universities and research organizations. We are open to different forms of collaboration, depending on the subject matter and scientific objectives.
One of our key research priorities is ingredient efficacy. The laboratory at the European Innovation Center will help us identify the most promising innovations and investigate how they could be incorporated into our products.
Our aim is to build partnerships that combine our partners’ scientific expertise with our in-depth understanding of the Chinese market and consumer expectations.
Premium Beauty News - Will the European Innovation Center’s laboratory also develop products for European consumers?
Hou Juncheng - Initially, our priority is the Chinese market. We start by identifying the needs and expectations of Chinese consumers, then look to Europe for ingredients, technologies and innovations that can address them.
However, the laboratory’s scope extends beyond the Chinese market. It will monitor global beauty trends, work with European suppliers to co-develop cutting-edge raw materials, accelerate the development of premium formulations and conduct forward-looking research in collaboration with leading academic institutions.
At the heart of this approach, the new R&D center will draw on complementary expertise to create a virtuous cycle of continuous innovation, connecting consumer insights, scientific research and product development on an international scale.
Premium Beauty News - Beyond this laboratory, what are Proya’s ambitions for the next three to five years?
Hou Juncheng - Proya was founded in 2003, when international brands accounted for approximately 90% of the Chinese cosmetics market. Today, their share has fallen to around 43%. Over the same period, the Chinese market has expanded significantly, and our company has also achieved substantial growth. Our revenue has reached approximately US$1.5 billion in 2025.
We currently operate eleven brands, covering a broad range of market segments, from mass market to premium. Last year, we notably acquired Flower Knows, a makeup brand known for its feminine, playful aesthetic.
Our strategy is to continue growing our business and expanding our international presence, particularly in Southeast Asia and Europe. Reaching our ambition of becoming one of the world’s ten leading beauty companies will also require us to explore opportunities to further diversify and strengthen our brand portfolio.
The luxury segment, for example, is attractive, but entering this market requires substantial investment and specific expertise. In some cases, acquiring an established brand may be a more effective approach than building a new one from scratch.
We may also consider investments or other forms of cooperation with international companies, depending on the opportunities available and the potential synergies with our existing portfolio. This does not necessarily mean pursuing acquisitions. We want to explore different partnership models based on a win-win approach.
Premium Beauty News - Could these partnerships also help international brands expand in China?
Hou Juncheng - Yes, absolutely. We have an in-depth understanding of the Chinese market and can draw on our experience to support the growth of international brands in the country.
There are many possible approaches, including investments, commercial partnerships and other forms of cooperation, without necessarily involving an acquisition. The key is to identify models that create value for both parties.
The history of major international beauty groups shows that brand portfolios are built up over time. For Proya, the challenge is to sustain its growth while remaining open to opportunities that can further strengthen its position in the global beauty market.
