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Ingredients & formulation

Givaudan aims to protect hair from free radical-induced whitening

Givaudan tackles hair whitening from the inside thanks to a new active ingredient that boost hair stem cells proliferation and protects hair follicles from free radicals.

In 4 months, Darkenyl significantly reduces the proportion and density of white hair (down to 50%).

In 4 months, Darkenyl significantly reduces the proportion and density of white hair (down to 50%).

The loss of pigmentation in the hair shaft (hair greying) is one of the most obvious signs of ageing, and one of the main beauty concerns of ageing. Indeed, between 45 and 65 years old, 74% of the worldwide population is affected by greying hair. According to Givaudan Active Beauty, 59% of consumers are worried about hair ageing. Asians, especially Japanese and Chinese, are particularly concerned about hair whitening.

Counteract free radicals

While genes can play a large role in hair whitening, “it is now well-known that free radicals are directly inducing the premature greying of hair for both men and women,” explains the manufacturer of active cosmetic ingredients.

To tackle this phenomenon, Givaudan’s scientists have designed Darkenyl, an active cosmetic ingredient combining two synergistic molecules: the taxifolin glucoside (a stabilised plant polyphenol) and N-acetyl-tyrosine (a soluble precursor of melanin).

According to Givaudan Active Beauty, Darkenyl fights against white hair through three main mechanisms:

  • Protection of hair follicles from oxidation.
  • Stimulation of hair follicle stem cells to create new melanocytes.
  • Melanogenesis activation to increase melanin production

This mode of action is completely independent from gender, hair type or hair colour, making Darkenyl an ideal solution to universally target hair greying,” says Givaudan.

The ability of Darkenyl to stimulate hair follicle stem cells and the melanogenesis has been demonstrated by various in vitro tests.

A clinical study versus placebo using white hair proportion scoring on hairlines and white hair density quantifying on a shaved scalp area have demonstrated the significant consumers’ benefits of Darkenyl: in 4 months, volunteers had more than 3 times less white hair/cm2, with up to -56% reduction of white hair.

Repigmenting serum

Darkenyl was presented at the in-cosmetics Asia tradeshow, which was held in Bangkok, Thailand, from October 30 to November 01, 2018.

To inspire beauty brands while showcasing the high potential of this new hair technology, Givaudan’s experts crafted S3D Colourback, a repigmenting and conditioning serum to beautify and rejuvenate the hair. S3D Colourback features Darkenyl and ResistHyal, a hair conditionning active. The serum quickly penetrates into the scalp and spreads on the hair thanks to an innovative comb placed on the tube to facilitate a precise and effective application, directly on the roots.

S3D Colourback was awarded in the haircare actives category at the show’s Spotlight-On-Formulation Award competition.

"It is part of our corporate DNA to inspire our customers, by providing them with not only the most performant ingredients, but also by crafting disruptive product concepts leveraging consumers insights and market trends to help them move faster on their market,” said Laurent Bourdeau, Head of Givaudan’s Active Beauty.

Vincent Gallon

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  • To inspire beauty brands while showcasing the high potential of this new (...)
  • S3D Colourback was awarded in the haircare actives category at the (...)
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