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Ingredients & formulation

Gattefossé highlights the benefits of its iconic natural emulsifier for the human microbiome

A natural and multifunctional oil in water (O/W) emulsifier, Emulium Mellifera MB allows the formulation of a wide range of textures for skin care, sun care and make-up products suitable for all skin types and climates. Today, a new clinical study reveals its positive impact on the human micronbiome.

Gattefossé demonstrated that Emulium® Mellifera MB is “microbiome-friendly”,...

Gattefossé demonstrated that Emulium® Mellifera MB is “microbiome-friendly”, meaning that it maintains, even improves the cutaneous microbiota balance.

Emulium Mellifera MB a natural, PEG-free, O/W emulsifier made from beeswax and jojoba wax. Flexible and multifunctional, it allows the formulation of a wide range of textures suitable - from sprayable lotions to thick butters - and applications, such as skin care, sun care or make-up for all skin types and climates. It creates natural emulsions with white and luxurious appearance, while leaving a light and smooth feeling after the application.

Furthermore, according to Gattefossé, it is also an active ingredients, thanks to “its moisturizing and anti-pollution properties, its capacity to visibly improve skin texture and its high tolerance even for sensitive and hyper reactive skin.

In a clinical study, Gattefossé assessed the microbiome-friendly effects of Emulium Mellifera MB.

Cutaneous microbiota balance

The purpose of the research was to test the effect of an emulsion formulated with 4% of Emulium Mellifera MB on parameters including skin moisturi­zation, skin barrier function and to understand its impact on cutaneous microbiota.

Several evaluation techniques were used:

- Study of cutaneous microbiota by amplification and sequencing of ribosomal 16S DNA
- Biometrological measures: corneometry, TEWL
- Self-assessment by the volunteers on various criteria
- Questionnaire to understand what volunteers know about cutaneous microbiota
- Overall satisfaction questionnaire

According to Gattefossé, results showed an increase of moisturization, a reduction of TEWL reflecting a better barrier function and an improvement of the skin quality of volunteers.

More importantly, regarding the main focus of the research, the study of cutaneous microbiota after application of an emulsion containing Emulium Mellifera MB revealed that the taxonomic diversity and richness of the skin flora have been at least maintained or even improved for 81% of volunteers. These parameters are directly linked to a healthy skin, able to defend itself against external aggressions.

A specialist in lipid chemistry and plant extraction, Gattefossé products Emulium Mellifera MB through a patented technology of transformation and functionalization of natural waxes. “From beeswax and jojoba wax, the wax butter obtained by esterification and interesterification brings a unique sensoriality and moisturizing properties to this emulsifier,” highlights the French company.


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