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Ingredients & formulation

Gattefossé: A natural emulsifier for silicon-free make-up and sun care products

Gattefossé has showcased at in-cosmetics Global in Paris a new naturally derived water-in-oil emulsifier especially designed for pigmented formulations, such as make-up and sun care products. The innovation was rewarded by the Gold Innovation Award in the category “functional ingredients.”

With the aim to meet an increasing consumer demand for natural colour cosmetics and sunscreens, Gattefossé has been working for six years to find a composition that provides a concrete solution to natural water-in-oil (W/O) emulsion issues.

Maxime Nollet, research scientist specialized in lipid chemistry at Gattefossé

Maxime Nollet, research scientist specialized in lipid chemistry at Gattefossé

We have carefully selected three raw materials that are reacted together by esterification and interesterification. The association of a low freeglycerol grade of polyglycerol-6, 12-hydroxystearic acid and ricinoleic acid allow us to obtain a supple structure that stabilizes without need for a co-emulsifier. The insaturated chain brings fluidity to the final emulsion and gives textures that present easy spreading capacity,” explains Maxime Nollet, research scientist specialized in lipid chemistry at Gattefossé.

Dubbed Emulium Illustro, an innovative W/O emulsifier of natural origin, designed principally for pigmented formulations and sing a patented technology based upon polyglycerol esters.

According to Gattefossé, Emulium Illustro demonstrates superior performance and stability compared to other W/O emulsifiers on the market. “Flexible, easy to use and suitable for cold processing, this new ingredient enables the formulation of fluid textures that are comfortable to wear and bring a soft and hydrated feel to the skin,” highlights the French supplier of cosmetic ingredients, a renown specialist in lipid chemistry and plant extraction.

Of particular interest in colour and sunscreen formulations, Emulium Illustro can also be used to formulate innovative textures for skincare.

Malorie Duvent, formulation scientist at Gattefossé

Malorie Duvent, formulation scientist at Gattefossé

Guided by colour formulation experts, we have placed pigments at the heart of the research from day one. The emulsions were constructed around pigments, taking into consideration different types of coating as well as uncoated materials. We have performed many tests with Emulium Illustro to explore it from every angle: compatibility with cosmetic ingredients, stability, sensoriality and clinical evaluation. We have also developed many formulations to demonstrate its interest in make-up, sun care and skincare. Our fully natural foundation was evaluated in a consumer test on a panel composed of habitual users of silicone foundations. The panellists were thrilled by both the performance of the natural foundation and the appearance of their skin after use. This is the best reward we could have hoped for,” concludes Malorie Duvent, formulation scientist at Gattefossé.

Emulium Illustro receives the Gold Innovation Award at in-cosmetics Global

Emulium Illustro scooped the Gold Innovation Award in the Functional Ingredient category at in-cosmetics Global last week in Paris.

The Gattefossé team at in-cosmetics Global in Paris

The Gattefossé team at in-cosmetics Global in Paris

Gattefossé truly believes that natural alternatives can meet or surpass the performance of conventional cosmetics ingredients. The great feedback received from the panellists who tested Emulium Illustro was a reward in itself. This in-cosmetics Gold innovation award is a fantastic recompense for all our teams who have contributed to the conception and development of this new launch and I am confident in its future success,” commented Paula Lennon, Gattefossé Group Director for Personal care.

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