House of Naturals was created when “in 2023, we found that we needed to bring our management of natural materials under one roof. Until then, these had been handled by different organizations”, explains Xavier Renard, Global Head of Fine Fragrances.
The project includes Givaudan’s partnerships with raw material producers, natural ingredient sourcing, and the work done by agronomists. Led by Maxence Billas, Head of House of Naturals, it was designed “from field to fragrance”.
This move follows on from the acquisition of Albert Vieille in 2019, a company renowned for its expertise in the sourcing and quality management of natural materials: a key specialization at a time when climate change is affecting harvests.
The program also relies on the group’s site in Spain, where dry materials (resins, wood) are produced and transformed. The group aims to broaden its naturals palette and ensure consistent ingredient quality for Givaudan’s perfumers and customers.
Renewing the naturals palette
Innovation is at the core of the House of Naturals program. Nine Givaudan perfumers were selected to contribute to the project, in close collaboration with the Research & Development team. To keep on top of all market trends, seven come from Fine Fragrance, and two from functional fragrance, all different regions being represented (EMEA, Asia, North America). They express their needs for new facets, including molecular fractionation applied to Jasmine Sambac, which helped obtain a less animal-like, greener, more floral note.
R&D also plays a proactive role in developing ingredients either derived from new plant sources, or using more environmentally friendly extraction methods. The validation of an ingredient does not necessarily depend on the unanimous agreement of perfumers, but it must find its place within the natural palette, even if it means it becomes exclusive to certain clients. To Givaudan, it is a way to adapt to market fragmentation.
Innovation as a means of differentiation
Molecular fractionation and the search for new extraction processes represent the two main areas of innovation when it comes to natural ingredients. Upcycling is also a major driver. This method helps create natural fruit extracts or unveil other olfactory profiles in an already known ingredient, as could be seen with Rose Concentrate NatSource®, which adorns rose with a touch of clean, modern freshness.
Other techniques like molecular distillation or raw material processing also offer means to enrich the palette of naturals.
Over the past ten years, it was actually completed with 100 new ingredients. In an effort to contribute to the premiumization of the market, Givaudan already boasts over 50 ongoing innovation projects, with a view to launch five new ingredients per year. In a market saturated with new product launches, these developments serve as ways for creative work to stand out.
Sourcing, a historic heritage
In 1994, after acquiring Roure, a pioneer in setting up branches abroad, in particular in Madagascar, Givaudan focused on ingredient sourcing. This was a founding choice, as the company then developed an open innovation approach to secure its supplies and support the sustainability of supply chains.
Today, natural ingredient sourcing is an integral part of Givaudan’s DNA. “This is perfectly illustrated by the first ethical sourcing projects back in 2002, in Australia. Then came the tonka bean supply chains in Venezuela in 2008, and lavender, in France, in 2012, which reinforced this commitment. The Origination initiative in 2013 marked a strategic turning point, when we directly settled at the source, in Indonesia, for patchouli”, explains Billas.
Campus 52: turning House of Naturals into reality
Campus 52, which is currently under construction, will bring together Givaudan’s operations currently based in Vallauris and Mouans-Sartoux, also in the Grasse region, as well as the management of sourcing partnerships. The project represents an investment of about 60 million euros, a significant proportion of which is meant for innovation, as well as for developing the production and processing operations currently carried out in Mouans-Sartoux. In addition, the new site will help directly process the fresh flowers supplied by Grasse-based farmers, the group’s partners.
The ground floor will house the innovation laboratories, as well as extraction and analytical research facilities, while the upper floor will be dedicated to the fragrance and application laboratory. The other areas will bring together the quality control, processing, blending and storage facilities for essential oils and absolutes. Lastly, a historic building, refurbished for the occasion, will host events.
With Campus 52, Givaudan aims to bring House of Naturals’ ambition to life – to master the entire process from field to fragrance, fostering innovation and olfactory differentiation.
