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Aïna Queiroz

Emotional Glyco-intelligence: deciphering sugars through unexplored dimensions

It is pretty hard to escape from the first clear signs: the cosmetics industry is definitely, officially entering the emotional era! And it keeps searching for more rationality to substantiate arguments about ingredients, formulas, objective skin beauty and emotionality.

Keen to offer multifunctional ingredients that can keep up with this challenge and follow the “well-aging” trend, Seqens Cosmetics is officially launching a new innovation platform on “Glyco-intelligence”.

Clinical tests versus placebo were coupled with a parallel study that significantly measured the positive impact of exopolysaccharides of over 4 million Da on the emotional dimension of the formulas tested. (Photo : © Master1305 / shutterstock.com)

Clinical tests versus placebo were coupled with a parallel study that significantly measured the positive impact of exopolysaccharides of over 4 million Da on the emotional dimension of the formulas tested. (Photo : © Master1305 / shutterstock.com)

Among others, the natural active ingredient manufacturer focused on deciphering very high-molecular-weight sugars according to two dimensions:

  • An active dimension: by characterizing the 3D patterns present at the core of these macro-structures, which have an affinity for key skin structures
  • An emotional dimension: by measuring their ability to significantly improve self-perception on volunteers vs. placebo

These new approaches put the spotlight on a few giant polysaccharides which represent candidates that have a very high potential as emotional beauty enhancer active ingredients.

Glycobiological structure efficacy

Megasugars already have a well-identified place in cosmetics departments, with a first generation of ingredients with immediate effects based on their physico-chemical properties, like filmogenicity and a high hygroscopy. They were also highlighted for their biological properties, mainly as cell metabolism boosters. However, the structure-efficacy prediction is limited by the plasticity of polysaccharides, contrary to proteins and the traditional “key-lock” model. However, thanks to the sophisticated deciphering of the patterns available within the structure, Seqens Cosmetics has found new solutions to predict efficacy, in particular using lectin-array and GLYcoPROFILING® (GLYcoDiag) techniques.

Thanks to the specific recognition of sugar-lectin couples, Seqens managed to predict the efficacies associated with a selection of exopolysaccharides, like dermo-epidermal regeneration, which were verified with regards to radiance, texture, and skin hydration. In addition, these clinical tests versus placebo were coupled with a parallel study that significantly measured the positive impact of exopolysaccharides of over 4 million Da on the emotional dimension of the formulas tested.

Emotional dimension: self and alloperception improvement

The interdependence between emotions and our perception of our own image (self-perception) or the image we think we project on others (alloperception) represents an essential study lever for the wellness industry. Up until now, the impact of a cosmetic product on our emotions has been evaluated subjectively, with more recent methods emerging that aim to quantify this parameter by combining psychology with neuroscience.

The tools developed by Emospin®, which analyze the parameters associated with prosody (intensity and vocal frequency) and verbatim (lexical field used by the volunteers), highlighted a significant improvement of the emotional state and an evolution towards a more optimistic, more positive lexical world in the group of volunteers treated with this giant exopolysaccharide.

The next generation of multifaceted emotional beauty enhancers

In line with the current ‘Less is More’ trend, the boom of minimalist cosmetics is also conveyed by an explicit demand of consumers for short, efficient, skin-preserving formulas. One of the main response strategies – without compromising on sophisticated textures – consists of using ingredients with several dimensions that can, for example, offer real skin and emotional benefits.

The creation of the latest Seqens Cosmetics innovation platform dedicated to Glyco-intelligence helped measure the ability of a giant exopolysaccharide to provide a quantifiable benefit vs. placebo, visibly enhancing the quality of the skin tissue, but also the consumer’s emotional state when they apply the product. This first success paves the way for characterised active ingredients specifically designed to enhance the perception of beauty and emphasizes the company’s willingness and motivation to offer a generation of “emotional beauty enhancer” solutions.

Aïna Queiroz

© 2019 - Premium Beauty News - www.premiumbeautynews.com
about Aïna Queiroz
Aïna Queiroz

After several years working at Solabia, Aïna Queiroz was recruited in 2014 by ID Bio, now known as Seqens Cosmetics, to head the Research and Development department and develop the cosmetic active ingredient offering.

As an expert in Skin Biology and Phytochemistry, she has become Head of Innovation and Scientific Communication: she identifies tomorrow’s strategic research areas for the company. Regularly invited to international scientific congresses to highlight the group’s advances, she also identifies and manages the various global scientific partnerships to address targeted, particularly dynamic lines of research. Her career, recently completed with a specialization in Ethnobotany at the Faculty of Pharmacy of Lille, France, also enabled her to contribute to carrying out field scientific investigations and setting up plant sectors, as part of the company’s Sustainable Innovation strategy.

Web : www.seqens.com

(Photo Aïna Queiroz : © Julien Labrosse)


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