According to Xavier Joseph, the global beauty market is now growing at an annual rate of 4%, getting closer to its historic average. Still, geopolitical uncertainty carries a lot of weight on both supply chains and the decisions made by industry players. Yet, to Aptar Beauty’s innovation expert, the main challenge is to deal with the ongoing shifts in an increasingly complex and diversified market.
“These shifts are redefining brands’ expectations towards packaging suppliers and dispensing systems”, emphasizes Joseph. But “more than constraints, they actually represent a series of opportunities”, he says. “Demand is still strong in all our dispensing systems categories.”
Towards a new materials science
In many segments, the market tends to become increasingly polarized. As far as fragrances are concerned, these dynamics result in the coexistence of very different worlds: ultra-premium niche fragrance creations sit alongside booming body mists and more accessible product sizes. In skincare, dermocosmetics are still overperforming, while private labels are gaining ground in more affordable segments.
Yet, one of the most visible changes is the transformation of formulas. Alcohol-free fragrances, highly viscous textures, and the gradual substitution of some historic ingredients compel dispensing systems manufacturers to review materials.
Among the changes observed, Aptar notes the boom of alcohol-free formulas which cannot be delivered with standard pumps. Some of the technologies developed by the Group already meet these new needs, for example those used for Guerlain’s new Aqua Allegoria Perle skincare fragrance.
Another challenge consists in gradually substituting short-chain alkanes for silicones in cosmetic formulations. “These ingredients tend to cause certain polyolefins to swell, which compels us to adapt our knowledge in materials science.”
If powders can still be considered a niche market, Aptar also keeps working in this area, while its GSA platform can already deliver highly viscous formulas.
Sustainability as a product experience driver
When it comes to tightened environmental regulations, Joseph considers sustainability “non-negotiable”, although it can also “become an innovation opportunity to enhance the user experience”.
To him, refills perfectly illustrate this change. Long seen as an environmental response, they are also becoming premium items that can strengthen bonds with brands. For the new refillable version of its eye contour cream Total Eye Lift, Clarins chose Aptar Beauty’s patented airless system Gaïa. The main, metal-based case delivers the high level of aestheticism required by the brand, while plastic-based refills can be recycled through PP (Polypropylene) and PE (Polyethylene) systems.
In addition, the Group has been working on reducing material quantity, developing cap-free solutions, in particular with propellants for aerosols fitted with a Double-Click system, and improving recyclability, in line with the European Packaging and Packaging Waste Regulation (PPWR).
Aptar is also enhancing its portfolio of materials. “It has been a long time since we removed POM. We are also removing PFASs and, more broadly, anything that may pose an ecotoxic risk.”
When beauty borrows from medicine
Another structuring trend is the increasing medicalization of beauty. The boom of dermocosmetics and the emergence of increasingly technical skincare are gradually getting the beauty and medical device sectors closer. This convergence has an influence in particular on expectations when it comes to achieving dose precision, protecting sensitive formulas, or enhancing the application experience.
“Having a pharma division has the advantage of securing skills that can be directly used to develop specific solutions”, emphasizes Joseph.
Customization and inclusiveness
Ultimately, it should be noted that customization remains one of the main market trends, therefore a major area of innovation for Aptar. Solutions like Nomad Refill meet consumers’ desire to carry, refill, and adapt fragrances more easily.
Also, Aptar has been working on packaging accessibility more discreetly, but on a long-term basis. It has been a few years since the Group started collaborating with the APF France handicap association to improve the ease of handling, usability and ergonomics of its solutions. This approach helped obtain the Concepteur Inclusif [note: Inclusive Designer] label awarded by the association – a distinction still rare in the beauty industry. “The idea is to create more universal products that are also easier to use for everyone”, explains Joseph.
India and South Asia are proving much dynamic
Geographically speaking, Aptar has noticed a gradual shift in the centre of gravity of growth. If Western markets are still essential, China now presents a more mixed picture, with some international brands posting more modest results, whilst local players are showing strong momentum.
According to Joseph, India and South-East Asia offer the most promising potential. “These markets combine rising product penetration and increasingly premium consumption patterns”, he explains.
This dual trend is urging Aptar to develop innovations specifically designed for these markets. The Nouvelle airless packaging, made in India and designed to meet local constraints, perfectly exemplifies this strategy. The innovations validated on the Indian market can then be rolled out in Thailand or Indonesia.
The fast development of lifestyle fragrances in this region is combined with local industrial capacities, in particular thanks to the Group’s acquiring a stake in the Chinese company Goldrain, which offers a range of perfume pumps tailored to the Asian market’s needs.
Producing closer to local markets
Lastly, the recent commercial tensions, including in relation to American tariffs, have highlighted the benefits of regionalizing production. With industrial sites in Europe, North America, Mexico, Brazil, India, Thailand, and China, Aptar asserts its ability to minimize logistics risks with homogenized production quality.
As cost pressures remain high, Joseph still points that the industry cannot be reduced to a purely price-based approach. “Everyone is making an effort, but the beauty industry must remain a market for innovation”, he concludes.
