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Ingredients & formulation

“Photoprotection has applications in many cosmetics claims,” Christophe Paillet, Exsymol

At the last edition of the in-cosmetics Global show held in London on April 4-6, 2017, Exsymol, a Monaco-based designer and manufacturer of cosmetic actives, showcased a new photoprotective and a series of new study results. Here is a review with Christophe Paillet, Communication Director.

Christophe Paillet, Exsymol

Christophe Paillet, Exsymol

Premium Beauty News - You have launched a new photoprotection active ingredient at the last edition of in-cosmetics. Skin protection against external aggressions was one of the main trends of the event. How is photoprotection positioned within this context?

Christophe Paillet - It is a cross-disciplinary theme which offers applications in many cosmetics claims like anti-aging, sun protection, or anti-pollution. All these claims are in high demand.

As we were in search of something inspired from naturalness, we eventually developed and patented a premium bio-molecule: SOLEXYL®. It is a conjugate derivative of thiomethylpropenoic acid, an isomer of Entadamide A found in tropical lianas. This active is both able to play a photoprotective role, like natural chromophores (melanin, tryptophan, urocanic acid…), and prevent any adverse effect such as premature aging, inflammation, immunosuppression… which are often generated by these natural chromophores. Among others, our tests showed its remarkable photoprotective, antioxidant, and anti-inflammatory virtues, so this new active can be positioned on the anti-immunosuppression niche.

Premium Beauty News - We have noticed that this edition of in-cosmetics paid particular attention to all sources of aggressions, whether external or internal.

Christophe Paillet - It is more and more widely recognized that the skin’s appearance mainly depends on external, but also internal aggressions, which all generate more or less chronic stress. That is why we have been strengthening our involvement in the field of the impact of psychological stress on the skin.

A new study on Epidermosil®, a silanol (organic silicon stabilized by hyaluronic acid with low molecular weight), showed its efficacy against the effects of psychological stress on the epidermis, for example atrophy and dermatoporosis. This active can act thanks to an original mechanism: an action on hyalurosome, a real hyaluronic acid production machine and a regulator of cell growth.

Premium Beauty News - What were the other key points to your participation in in-cosmetics 2017?

Christophe Paillet - We had chosen to highlight our expertise in body issues with a review of our concepts and slimming and firming actives, and by providing details on the last results obtained with a red algae extract with a lipolytic and anti-adipogenesis effect particularly involved in anti-yo-yo phenomena.

We also emphasized our offering in dermocosmetics, another segment that is showing strong growth, with new data in the field of healing – in particular results obtained with a scratch test on keratinocyte and fibroblast models - on actives like Glistin® or Epidermosil®, which were previously used for a more traditional cosmetics positioning.

In the field of anti-aging, we presented the results of a recent clinical study targeting global anti-aging, eye contour and anti-wrinkle effects. This study demonstrated the synergic benefits provided by the combination of MeiYanoL® and Algisium®. MeiYanoL®, a common elder flower extract which acts thanks to an original mechanism on dark circles and bags, was introduced for the first time in 2015. MeiYanol was actually one of the themes presented on our Sustainability Corner dedicated to CSR policies. As regards Algisium®, it has been an essential for several decades in terms of restructuring and firming activity.

Lastly, we also introduced a new element to our anti-aging offering with OLEOSTERINES® HOUBLON, an unsaponifiable fraction of hop which reshapes the oval of the face through a “V-reshaping” effect mainly due to an adipogenic mechanism that prevents the “gaunting” phenomenon typical of facial aging.

Interview by Vincent Gallon

© 2017 - Premium Beauty News - www.premiumbeautynews.com
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