Premium Beauty News - How was Chloé Eau de Parfum Naturelle born?
Karole Stanislas - This new addition is part of the sustainable development approach that has been driving Chloé for several years. And more particularly since the arrival, a year ago, of our new Creative Director, Gabriela Hearst, who advocates an ethical and responsible fashion. The brand’s latest fashion show during the Fashion Week demonstrates this. Furthermore, this approach also draws on the DNA of Chloé, a brand that has always emphasised natural and authentic femininity ("the most naturally feminine fashion brand").
Premium Beauty News - Does this launch reflect a quest for naturalness among consumers?
Karole Stanislas - This project is first and foremost a reflection of my holistic vision of consumption. But also my conviction that people are looking for "cleaner" or natural products. The health crisis also helped to bring this project to fruition and finished convincing perfume houses. Indeed, it was quite challenging to impose this launch, the industry was reluctant, mostly for technical reasons related to the sillage and the staying power of the perfume. That said, even if I believe this trend is real, no study really supports it. Moreover, it varies from one country or market to another. But you only have to look at the beauty shelves to see for yourself.
Premium Beauty News - What is your take on the natural trend in perfumery?
Karole Stanislas - I think that consumers see natural products as a token of confidence, particularly in terms of health, rightly or wrongly so. But there are two obstacles to this trend: on the one hand, a strong industry lobby, and on the other, the fact that it is an expensive choice. I think we need to strike a balance in terms of formulation. There are many contradictory studies on the subject. On the one hand, petrochemical endocrine disruptors are stigmatised. On the other, natural resources are not inexhaustible, ecologically speaking. This is why perfume houses are developing sustainable materials or ingredients from upcycling. In my opinion, green chemistry is a response to this complex issue, which is very topical at Coty.
Premium Beauty News - What brief did you give to the Perfumer Michel Almairac for this new product?
Karole Stanislas - Behind the brief, there was a desire to reinterpret the signature fragrance by giving it a new facet, with this creative requirement. We wanted the fragrance to give off this naturalness, olfactively, as clear evidence. Through green facets in particular, which express this idea of nature, of a garden in bloom.
Premium Beauty News - This Eau de parfum is composed of "100% natural" ingredients. Can you tell us more from a technical point of view?
Karole Stanislas - Perfumer Michel Almairac worked with beautiful natural materials (rose, citron, neroli and cedar), coming from organic farming and eco-responsible channels. In this respect, the brand was determined to be transparent. This formula also includes isolates, which are molecules extracted from a plant via a chemical process, provided that they contain more than 50% renewable carbon. I wasn’t involved in the creative process, but the renewable materials that perfume houses - in this case, Robertet - have been developing recently were also a challenge.
Premium Beauty News - You are the first major brand to offer a "natural" Eau de parfum. Is this a turning point for the future of perfumery?
Karole Stanislas - The craze for this type of perfumery is real, but I am not sure that it will become a trend of its own in the selective segment. Perfumers are indeed more and more approached for this type of project, which demonstrates the public’s expectations. But I don’t think that all the big brands are ready to take the step. It is a delicate subject, which comes up against the strong industry lobby and the lack of transparency surrounding the formulation. The choice of natural, high-quality materials is also expensive.
The trend towards "naturals" is already well established in the beauty care or niche perfumery sectors. It is now taking its first steps in the selective sector, as part of a global ecological awareness. Indeed, big brands are increasingly launching initiatives to use "cleaner" or eco-responsible materials. It remains to be seen how green chemistry can reshape the perfumery of tomorrow.