Global crisis impacts on figures

Vivaness (World Trade Fair for Natural Personal Care and Wellness) was held from February 17 to 20, 2010 at the Nuremberg fairground, together with BioFach (World Organic Trade Fair). About 43,500 trade visitors, of which 38 % foreign visitors, attended both events: a 7% drop compared to the 46,771 visitors recorded in 2009. The number of exhibitors was also declining: 2,557 this year, compared to 2733 in 2009. “The organic-market has stood up to the crisis. The passed 4 days of the fair demonstrated this sector has kept the pot boiling. The organic-trend and the trend to an ecologically sustainable consumption continue,” commented Claus Rättich, Member of the Management Board, NürnbergMesse.

However, Vivaness alone is a much smaller event: 183 exhibitors (205 in 2009) from 21 countries (24 in 2009) including Germany (88), France (29), Italy (16), Great Britain (12) and Austria (8).

The show comprehensively reflected the market and trade buyers looking for an overview of trends, new products, new brand positioning and international developments for natural cosmetics were on the right track there. The benefits of the visit was enhanced by the Vivaness Forum, the congress programme accompanying the exhibition, which provided production, marketing and trade professionals with the latest figures and assessments from international experts - a worthwhile look into the future of the market for natural beauty care!

Dynamic markets, despite crisis

Despite of this dull economic context, the natural cosmetics market is still growing. Lows and highs of the economy have astonishingly little effect on a market that has been recording stable growth from more than a decade. According to the British market research institute Organic Monitor, worldwide sales are growing by 1 billion US dollars a year and are currently estimated at approximately 7 billion US dollars. As in the case of organic food, the demand is concentrated on Europe and North America.

The American market accounts for 4.5 billion. In 2008 the entire German market for certified natural cosmetics had grown by almost 10 % to 672 million EUR and reached a market share of 5.3 % of total sales of cosmetics. Estimations indicate that European sales figures rose by 13 % in 2009. The market volume in Europe could reach 2 billion EUR in 2010. France and Germany show the fastest growth. At international level, the United States and Asia, primarily Japan and Korea, are the leading buyer markets.

Changing demand and changing offer

Consumers’ priorities are clearly changing from a meant-is-cool mentality to more awareness of value for money, and a stronger focus on product quality.

Besides the powers of persuasion of the products and the general trend to naturalness, the growing popularity of natural cosmetics is also due to their growing availability in all sales channels, including mass market, an increased media presence and a variety of innovations.

German and international companies are positioning themselves with innovative products. There is now much more investment in researching and securing highly effective, selected natural raw materials and in effectiveness tests than in earlier years. Makers of natural and organic cosmetics are adopting a new corporate culture: the development of new processes, and the investment in very modern production facilities are now as important as the attention to sustainability, environmental protection and biodiversity or fair trade.

Main innovations

“Sales Hit of the Year” awards were presented once again in 2010. A total of 298 new products had registered for the organic event of the year. The Vivaness exhibitors showed 63 innovative individual products and product lines and BioFach exhibitors 235. The decisive factor for winning the award was the number of times the new products were scanned at the POS in organic food shops and organic supermarkets. The Jury Awards for BioFach and Vivaness also took other factors into account, such as company’s innovativeness or the overall market presence. This year’s winners at Vivaness were the Dr. Hauschka’s Skin Soothing Mask and Weleda’s Pomegranate Beauty Shower.

The Vivaness Jury Award went to the neobio brand of Logocos AG for a wise and bold brand policy. Last year’s relaunch helped the brand to achieve a modern and innovative presence. Neobio managed to attract a young target group and several products made it to the Top 50 new product sales.

Many new green cosmetic brands are currently capturing the international market. The spectrum ranges from inexpensive trade brands to luxurious green glamour products. This broad spectrum of products is reflected in diversified and innovative marketing concepts. The increasing availability of certified natural cosmetics in all trading formats means there are good candidates to a rapid expansion.

However, the recent emergence of new labels and test symbols, and certification procedures have not helped to made orientation easier for trade and consumers. The harmonization of standards has to be pushed further.

The next Vivaness (and BioFach) will be hold on 16-19 February 2011 at the Nuremberg fairground.