The first exclusive “collection” proposed by a famous brand was discreetly launched by Prada in 2003, and it did not make the headlines. However Dior, with Colognes, Armani Privé, or Hermès, with Hermessences, quickly followed, and so did Guerlain, Estée Lauder - up until the latest one - and L’Atelier Givenchy, with a collection that now counts seven “haute perfumery” fragrances as a tribute to haute couture.

There are now almost 25 collections available for only 14 brands, including 7 for Guerlain, 4 for Tom Ford and 3 for Armani, which makes it 169 perfumes to this day. However, the variety of references does not prevent the creation of a common world in which rare and precious scent lovers recognize themselves: an identifiable olfactory world, a discreet marketing campaign, premium ingredients, minimalist packaging with dominant shades of white, black and gold…

Materials and trends

The olfactory world of these collections is dominated by flowery (40 %) and woody scents (24 %), but there are also many oriental (21 %), hesperidia and Chypre fragrances (5 %). By definition, and out of a desire for more variety, they cover all nasal fields, except maybe for marine scents.

Isabelle Ferrand stresses the favourite raw material in collections is iris, which can be found in numerous compositions. As for olfactory trends, it is the Oud that is the most frequent: it is inherent to all collections, except the collection by Chanel. Leather, incense, patchouli, rose and jasmine have also greatly inspired composers.

Towards a global brand world

Makeup ranges, skincare creams, candles, new perfume substrates… The collection offer is getting more diversified now, and brands are opening more and more wholly owned stores with VIP services. This is the birth of a new luxury dimension in which the great names of perfumery manage to maintain their positions.