A new research from Mintel highlights the trends driving innovation in skincare, colour cosmetics and haircare in the UK beauty market that could shape the future of beauty across the world.
As consumers around the world are getting increasingly aware of the importance the skin’s ecosystem diversity for their health, the UK is leading the way globally for facial skincare launches targeting the skin microbiome. Over 37% of the world’s launches in 2018 were in the UK, followed by the US (25%) and France (15%) - according to Mintel Global New Products Database (GNPD).
“British skincare brands have been among the first to understand the importance of the microbiome, the natural bacteria found in and on the body which can be balanced through skincare,” commented Jane Henderson, Global President - Beauty and Personal Care Division at Mintel.
Beyond the skin microbiome, consumers in the UK are embracing a ’treat yourself’ mindset, prestige/luxury facial skincare accounted for 71% of launches in the UK in 2018, compared to 54% 10 years ago (in 2008). In contrast, budget and mass facial skincare launches are losing out, slightly declining from 14% of all UK launches in 2008 to just 10% in 2018.
Make-up is a serious business in the UK! The country is the 4th biggest colour cosmetics market globally, valued at an estimated GBP 2.1 billion (EUR 2,45 billion or USD 2.77 billion) in 2018, following beauty powerhouses US, Japan and China. Brits are also the 4th biggest colour cosmetics spenders, with an average per capita spend of GBP 32 per year.
In this context, being transparent and “toxin free” has never been greater for colour cosmetics brands. According to Mintel, the UK is the European leader for so-called “clean colour cosmetics” launches, and second globally only to the US. The market research firm defines clean colour cosmetics as those carrying ’free-from’, ’natural’ and ’ethical and environmental’ claims. According to Mintel, the country accounted for 21% of all global ‘clean’ colour cosmetics launches in 2018.
“The clean beauty movement started out in skincare and is now quickly moving into colour cosmetics, with the UK leading the way. Consumers are holistically looking to clean up their lifestyles, so clean makeup will become increasingly important in the coming years. Clean beauty is more than a trend, it’s a lifestyle, and as such brands must adapt to the changing landscape to secure their place in the future market,” explained Henderson.
In the wake of the clean beauty trend, British consumers are more broadly embracing beauty with a conscience. Vegan claims, for instance, trebled in haircare between 2014-18 in the UK, rising from 6% of all launches in 2014 to an impressive one in five (20%) in 2018. In comparison, only 10% of haircare launches across the globe carried a vegan claim. Meanwhile, gluten-free claims trebled in haircare between 2016-18 in the UK, rising from 3% of all launches in 2016 to 9% in 2018. In comparison, just 4% of haircare launches across the globe carried a gluten-free claim.
"The UK is a hotbed of beauty innovation, with major global trends emerging and developing. In the next 5-10 years, the skincare industry will expand from simply focusing on the microbiome to also include the exposome, i.e. external environmental factors like pathogens, fungi, pollution and plants that interact with our DNA and affect our health. This will inspire NPD that takes a bespoke and holistic approach to skincare and health, such as exposome-measuring wearable devices, bespoke ingestibles, personalised DNA nutrition, and products that boost skin health and personal air quality,” concluded Jane Henderson.