“During my studies and early years in cosmetics, bacteria were seen only as a problem—never as a solution,” explains Marie Drago, founder of Gallinée.
A Doctor of Industrial Pharmacy trained at the Faculty of Sciences in Orsay at the Paris-Saclay University, France, Marie Drago has spent most of her career in the cosmetics sector, from Dublin to London and Paris, working with both start-ups and major brands. Her time at the fledgling Soap & Glory immersed her in the realities of hypergrowth. Her expertise in formulation, as well as in marketing, quality control, and regulatory affairs, proved invaluable when she founded Gallinée in 2016.
Rethinking cosmetics through biology
“The idea was to harness the power of the skin’s own bacteria,” the founder explains.
The brand was launched in London with EUR 100,000 in initial capital, thanks largely to support from family and friends — just enough to introduce five skincare products built around a patented complex of pre-, pro-, and post-biotics. “It was the first time we formulated cosmetics by leaning on biology rather than chemistry,” she recalls.
Diagnosed with a rare autoimmune disease, Marie Drago became interested in the role of the microbiome in health at a young age. From the beginning, Gallinée has focused on sensitive, atopic, and acne-prone skin. Made in France, the skincare line has steadily built a loyal following, thanks in large part to its proven effectiveness.
“Creating skincare that strengthens bacteria meant rethinking formulation and production from the ground up. We even had to train our suppliers and formulators,” explains Marie Drago. This shared investment and learning journey has kept the brand closely aligned with its original partners ever since.
The underrated charm of startups
Gallinée’s launch coincided with the worldwide success of Giulia Enders’ book Gut: The Inside Story of Our Body’s Most Underrated Organ (2014), which helped popularize the concept of the microbiome. Despite modest beginnings and limited resources, the brand benefited from strong media coverage and secured placements at Harvey Nichols in London and Printemps Haussmann in Paris. A standout appearance on the television program Télématin boosted its visibility in France, which soon became its main market.
Despite its early success, Gallinée remains a small operation. Beyond product research and development, the founder—like many entrepreneurs—must stay “hands-on,” overseeing commercial and operational matters, as well as training and communication. Her support team consists of an external board and an intern, whom she hired in 2018.
Gallinée soon caught the attention of investors. In 2018, Unilever Ventures took a stake in the company, and the brand also secured support from a consortium of Deloitte-affiliated business angels. “This allowed us to strengthen our structure. When acquisition discussions began, our accounts were in perfect order,” the founder recalls.
Growth driven by the pharmacy channel
Drawn to the brand’s distinctive DNA and pioneering expertise, the Shiseido Group acquired Gallinée in 2022 with the ambition of positioning it as a leading player in the dermo-cosmetic market in France and across Europe.
The Japanese group has since restructured the brand’s distribution, refocusing on the EMEA region and strengthening its identity as an expert-led skincare line. Gallinée is now available in pharmacies in France, the United Kingdom, Germany, Austria, Switzerland, Spain, and Italy.
“The potential of the microbiome in cosmetics needed broader shoulders than mine to grow,” the founder explains. She has since joined the group’s EMEA team as Chief Creative Officer, working alongside a General Manager. Freed from day-to-day operational and commercial duties, she can now return to her true passion: product research and development.
At the same time, Marie Drago continues to deepen her expertise through a university program on the microbiome at Sorbonne University in Paris. She dedicates a significant portion of her time to scientific monitoring, attends conferences, and benefits from ongoing exchanges with researchers across Shiseido’s network in Europe and Asia.
“Today, we can see that the microbiome wasn’t a passing trend—it’s revolutionizing cosmetics,” says Marie Drago
As it nears its tenth anniversary, Gallinée remains committed to its mission of exploring the connection between skin health and the microorganisms that inhabit it.
The brand has recently launched an anti-aging eye cream inspired by the bacteria mothers pass to their children during childbirth. “The idea is to use the microbiome as a miniature factory for the skin. We’ve developed a system in which skin bacteria themselves produce ceramides from specific precursors,” explains the founder.
The brand is also entering a new phase of growth through Amazon’s Premium Beauty store. “Bringing science to everyone gives it real impact. Our presence on Amazon ensures the same high standards, the same formulas, and the same educational approach — now with greater accessibility for those seeking gentle, effective skincare every day,” concludes Marie Drago.
