For the past 6 years, the San Diego, California-based start-up has been developing a tool to help meet the accelerating pace at which cosmetic products are brought to market. The mean feature of its model is access to data on the formulas of more than 250,000 cosmetic products and 200,000 ingredients, as well as the restrictions imposed by more than 100 standards and regulations, which are continuously updated.

"Our internal database lists all the INCIs and scientific sources. The ingredients are documented either by the suppliers or by the formulators, who have their library," explains Lucas Nanini, Europe/Asia Director.

After compiling data on several hundred thousand ingredients, The Good Face Project has responded to the needs of brands and retail chains with a B2B solution for validating the compliance of formula in different geographical areas and following the standards imposed by US and European retailers (Ulta, WalMart, Sephora...).

The Good Face tool gives access to regulatory data and compliance on ingredients and raw materials available on the market or in the process of being launched, with the option of multi-criteria selections (benefits, costs, certifications...). It can also offer users a selection of formulas that have been validated in scientific, marketing and/or regulatory terms.

"One of our five proprietary algorithms provides alternative molecules to align a formula with a country’s regulatory standards or a retailer’s specifications. All in all, this tool is designed for both the formulator and the regulatory team, with the difference that the regulatory part is done here in parallel with the formulation and not in sequences," emphasises the director.

CARA to speed up formulation development

Building on its existing model, Good Face Project recently launched a version based on artificial intelligence, described as "the GPT Chat of formulations." Following the example of Open AI’s famous interface, CARA Chat responds in real time to specific questions about ingredients in a formula, including safety, regulations, and claims. For example, the interface can be queried about the allergenic nature of the ingredients in a shampoo formula, or about the claims that can be made for a given formula, or how to make a product portfolio more natural.

In just a few clicks, users can access prototype skincare formulas, with details of their established benefits, proven claims, and regulatory compliance for a specific area. They can also draw up a comprehensive list of cosmetic formulas that are similar or close to a given skincare formula, or list alternatives for a specific formula or ingredient.

User-friendly, fast, and easy to access, Cara’s AI relies on a continuously updated database of more than 170 million referenced molecules. "Given the many molecules referenced, our tool can support all industries. For the time being, our customers are mainly players in the personal care, skin care, make-up, hair care and perfume industries, who need to manage allergen listings,” adds Lucas Nanini.

Offered as a software solution with an annual subscription, Good Face has already won over several niche brands, major groups, and ingredient suppliers, mainly in the United States, but also in Europe and Asia.

Read more in our special issue “Cosmetic Ingredients – April 2024”

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