Premium Beauty News - What changes have you noticed in the olfactory world?
Caroline Catherine - During this unprecedented crisis, people “took advantage” of lockdown to take care of themselves, using products they knew and had at home, or trying to create their own, taking inspiration from old recipes. It is both reassuring and creative to use old things to make something new – in marketing, we call it newstalgia.
Pierre Flores - From an olfactory standpoint, current trends are mixing up with lockdown needs, so the idea would be to select soothing, comforting notes. There is actually a return to musky, powdery notes related to a renewed taste for delicacies. But in perfumery, this taste is gradually oriented towards savoury fragrances. We are developing notes based on salt flower, for example – and they can be combined with marine notes, or hazelnut. For the latest collection of 100% natural TechnicoFlor perfumes, Alter Eco, we worked on a savoury addiction: textured, white cashew milk which both offered the comfort of milk and this off-beat savoury aspect. Right now, everyone is looking for this – in line with the evolution of tastes.
Premium Beauty News - Is the perception of natural perfumes changing as well, as a result of the context?
Caroline Catherine - The relationship with authenticity and traceability is confirmed, and it will keep developing. As a committed Perfumer, TechnicoFlor has had a vivid history with naturalness for a long time. Today, we endeavour to make natural perfumes evolve, orienting them towards playful, sensorial, and responsible naturalness, thanks to new ingredients. It is actually the concept of our new perfume range, Alter Eco, which is inspired from “alternative” ingredients for more environmentally friendly consumption: it features our most beautiful FairTrade materials. We like provoking, so we often do with our new gourmand fragrances, because consumers are not used to these notes in natural perfumes.
Pierre Flores - Today, biotechnologies make it possible to offer more and more original natural raw materials. For example, we managed to obtain natural heliotropin, although this ingredient is usually derived from organic chemistry. All this opens up new creative ways. In addition, we work on long-lasting Eaux de Toilette with a real signature. Many of our customers ask for this.
Premium Beauty News - Are there new emerging codes?
Pierre Flores - Unisex perfumes are booming: mixed perfumes count more launches than others right now. It is due to niche perfumes and it shows they have become democratic, but it is also due to the Middle East, where perfumes have never been gendered. Olfactory codes are changing, and societal factors have an impact on how fragrances are created. It encourages us to innovate and play on the existing palette, while searching for novelty.