Symrise stretches the boundaries of naturalness in perfumery

Obtaining 100% natural fruit extracts and extracting odoriferous compounds from the fruits, known for their high water content, is a real challenge since distilling water is very complicated and traditional extraction methods do not work. This is where Symrise’s SymTrap extraction technology comes into play.

Derived from the synergy between the Food and Fine Fragrance Symrise Divisions, SymTrap is used to extract odorant compounds from an ingredient in its aqueous state. This includes rinse water or residual juices produced by the extraction, distillation and freeze-drying of plants, fruits and vegetables. The technology can therefore be used to upcycle those waters and juices that will no longer go to waste. As it requires only a small amount of energy, SymTrap also has the advantage of a reduced carbon footprint.

Banana, strawberry, blackcurrant, apple

After a preview in July at the World Perfumery Congress in Miami, Symrise showcased at Beautyworld Middle East a range of fruity alcoholates that add up to the Garden Lab collection to form a range dubbed “Supernature”.

“After the successful launch of our Garden Lab range, we continued our constant exchanges with our Taste, Nutrition and Health colleagues. They introduced us to their banana food production line from Ecuador and mentioned the resulting water phase side stream. We immedialtely saw the opportunity to develop a Banana SymTrap,” said Jennifer Buffalo, Laboratory Manager Natural Ingredients at Symrise.

This creation was completed by three other alcoholates: Apple SymTrap, which offers a crunchy Granny Smith facet evolving into black tea and floral undertones, Strawberry SymTrap, and Blackcurant SymTrap, reminding the notes of blackcurrant liqueur from the Burgundy region and blackcurrent ice cream.

Many other creations are possible and Symrise already has a Maracuja SymTrap, made from passion fruit, and a Cranberry SymTrap.

“The history of perfumery has always been about exploring new and original notes. As explorers we are at the forefront of driving circularity through sustainable ingredient innovation,” highlights Ricardo Omori, President Global Fine Fragrance at Symrise.

The Supernature range, as well as Symrise’s other fragrance ingredients - in particular the Madagascar and Artisan collections - are now gathered within Maison Lautier 1795, named after the Grasse-based supplier who had merged over the 1990s with the German company Haarmann & Reimer, which became Symrise in 2003.