Lightskin is a natural depigmenting active ingredient obtained from biotechnological processes, rich in sulfur-containing peptides known for their capacity to limit melanogenesis. “Pigment defects are thus attenuated, complexion is lighter and more uniform, and radiance is revived in Caucasian and Asian skin,” said Silab in a statement.

Bioguided sulfur-containing peptides

For this new active, Silab tapped into the potential of sulfur-containing peptides, a series of molecules known for their transversal ability to limit melanogenesis.

Thus, Silab has selected the yeast Ogataea siamensis, whose natural capacity to produce sulfur-containing molecules constitutes a considerable selective advantage for its development in the phyllosphere of the medicinal plant Ervatamia coronaria.

Building on its 15 years of expertise in biotechnologies, the French manufacturer was able to develop a unique process for bioguiding this yeast, specifically stimulating the production of large quantities of these molecules of interest.

Doubled depigmenting action

According to Silab, this richness in bioguided sulfur-containing peptides enabled the global depigmenting action of Lightskin to be doubled on Caucasian and Asian melanocytes, significantly limiting tyrosinase activity and melanin production.

Silab has selected the yeast Ogataea siamensis that can produce sulfur-containing molecules known for their transversal ability to limit melanogenesis (Photo: Courtesy of Silab)

This efficacy was also demonstrated in pro-pigmenting contexts of pollution (receptor related to pollution (AhR) inactivated) and glycation (expression of the receptor for AGEs inhibited), the company highlighted.

Clinical tests

Lightskin was evaluated in volunteers selected on the presence of pigment spots, and more specifically on their high level of AGEs (Caucasian panel) or their history of living in polluted environments (Asian panel).

The results showed that the active ingredient at 2.5% reduces the appearance of spots after 56 days of treatment on both panels. Uniformity of the complexion is thus improved, and radiance is revived. 91% of Asian volunteers stated that their complexion was more uniform and brighter, and their spots less visible,” claimed Silab.

With its targeted performance, Lightskin is a patented active ingredient recommended in all depigmenting care products at the amount of 0.25 to 2.50%. Available in aqueous solution, it complies with biodiversity regulations and has a natural origin content of 98.8% (ISO 16128). It meets international cosmetic regulations requirements (Europe, United States, China, Japan, etc.).