As interest in the role of exosomes in cell communication continues to grow across the cosmetics industry, Seppic has focused on the standardized quantification of these naturally secreted nanovesicles, which carry biological signals between cells.

Globally, the market for these 30-150 nm nano-vesicles, naturally secreted by cells to transfer biological signals, is expected to reach USD 1.2 billion by 2033. [1]

The manufacturer has therefore precisely quantified the exosome concentration across its Celtosome range, developed at its Pontrieux site in Brittany, France.

Seppic’s Celtosome technology is based on the cultivation of native, undifferentiated plant cells from halophytic species. According to the company, this process yields a biomass containing around 4,000 exosomes per plant cell, corresponding to a standardized concentration of 50 million exosomes per microliter of active ingredient.

Concentration and biological activity

Beyond this characterization, Seppic says it has demonstrated the direct contribution of the exosome fraction to the biological activity of two flagship active ingredients in its range: Celtosome Eryngium Maritimum [2] and Celtosome Crithmum Maritimum [3].

For Celtosome Eryngium Maritimum, developed for anti-ageing skincare, a 0.05% dosage delivers 720 million exosomes per gram of formula. According to Seppic, tests on the isolated exosome fraction demonstrated its active role in supporting skin structure, with up to a 34% increase in collagen I synthesis in fibroblasts [4]. These findings complement previous results obtained with the complete active ingredient, which showed a 103% increase in dermal hyaluronic acid production [5] and a 34% increase in elastin production. Seppic also reports clinical benefits after 28 days of application, including a 12% reduction in the surface area of crow’s feet wrinkles. [6]

The second active ingredient, Celtosome Crithmum Maritimum, is designed for applications targeting complexion radiance, skin clarity, and skin longevity. Used at a 0.1% dosage, it delivers 1.44 billion exosomes per gram of cream.

The key challenge for brands lies in the ability to rely on a precise and reproducible concentration derived from an eco-responsible plant source in compliance with international regulations,Seppic highlights.