As far as cosmetic products are concerned, nanotechnology is the practice of integrating nanoparticle – i.e. microscopic particles ranging from 1 to 100 nanometers – into formulations. These nanoparticles can be active, functional or carrier ingredients offering various advantages, such as enhanced bioavailability, improved penetration, targeted delivery, increased stability and even novel textures.

Today, a range of nanomaterials are used in cosmetics, including liposomes, niosomes, solid lipid nanoparticles, nanostructured lipid carriers, dendrimers, and cubosomes, with innovation largely seen across anti-ageing, UV protection, skin whitening, and moisturizing, the review said. However, despite “promising advancements” being made, the researchers said concerns around the safety and long-term effect of nanoparticles “persist within both the scientific community and among consumers”.

The possibility that insoluble nanoparticles might lead to health hazards is a “topic of significant debate within scientific circles”, the researchers said, largely due to conflicting findings and lack of long-term toxicological research. Delivery and exposure of nanoparticles is also an area of concern, they said, with inhalation exposure considered a “viable concern” and safety questions around nanosized particles potentially entering the bloodstream during production or use. Potential bioaccumulation risks have also been spotlighted, they said.

“These concerns highlight the need for a cautious approach to the incorporation of nanotechnology in cosmetics,” they wrote.

Safety, toxicology and environmental impact

The review outlined several “key actions” needed as nanotechnology in cosmetics advances, suggesting industry takes a “proactive approach”.

Research investment, transparent communication with consumers, regulatory alignment and adoption of sustainable approaches will be critical in driving forward nanotech in cosmetics successfully, the researchers said, as well as ensuring any new product development is “science-backed”.

On the sustainability side, the researchers said eco-friendly practices must also be adopted when working with nanomaterials and “comprehensive strategies, including international collaboration and strict regulations” will be needed to ensure the benefits of nanoparticles do not come at the cost of environmental health.

“By addressing these critical aspects, the cosmetics industry can harness the full potential of nanotechnology while ensuring product safety and meeting the evolving expectations of consumers. This proactive approach will enable companies to innovate and differentiate their offerings in an increasingly competitive market, ultimately leading to a more dynamic and responsible cosmetic industry,” they wrote.

Speaking to Premium Beauty News, Dr. Barbara Brockway, cosmetics and personal care scientific adviser and owner of Barbara Brockway Consulting, agreed nanotechnologies need a harmonious approach, with full industry transparency, smarter regulation and research into the ecological impacts–like any cosmetic ingredient use.

An “exciting” field for cosmetic scientists

Brockway said, though, that when approached correctly, nanotechnologies are hugely promising. “As an industry, we are famous for being early adopters, adapting new technologies to solve cosmetic problems. Nanotechnology may hold the answers we need to some of our hardest problems.”

Nanotechnologies, she said, can offer cosmetic scientists a “valuable toolkit for targeted delivery and enhanced efficacy of cosmetic actives”.

“...This is an exciting field. Go in with your eyes open, keep your science solid and be aware of regulatory constraints,” she said.

Today, Brockway said a wide range of resilient delivery systems, including exosomes, solid lipid nanoparticles, nanostructured lipid carriers and dendrimers, are already being used by cosmetic formulators largely in the healthy ageing, hyperpigmentation and protection areas. But looking ahead, she said there are still underexplored areas, such as using microbiome-targeted delivery to selectively modulate skin microbiome composition or working with smart nanoparticle systems to respond to skin pH, temperature or UV exposure.

Work with exosomes and cell-derived vesicles is also an area to watch, she said. “Exosomes are particularly promising due to their resilience. Their natural origin, cell-targeting capacity and biocompatibility may give them practical and regulatory advantages over the other nanodelivery systems.”