“Microneedle-based systems hold significant potential to shift cosmetic delivery from passive topical application toward controlled intradermal administration, thereby bridging cosmetic science and aesthetic dermatology,” the researchers wrote.
Research, clinical evidence and know-how
Microneedling – the use of very small needles to puncture the skin and help penetration of topicals – has been used in dermatology clinics for years, more recently gained ground in the form of at-home microneedle-based delivery systems that can be used by regular consumers. And many of these tools are being used to enhance efficacy of bioactive topical ingredients, such as peptides, vitamins, antioxidants, and hyaluronic acid, according to the review.
Dissolving hyaluronic acid (HA) microneedle patches, for example, became popularized through leading brands such as Sulwhasoo, Amorepacific, Acropass and Dr. Jart+, peptide-loaded solutions are being used for targeted rejuvenation, and vitamin C or niacinamide microneedle masks are available for pigmentation control. And today, major beauty companies like L’Oréal, Estée Lauder and Shisheido are heavily investing in microneedle R&D, patents and partnerships for next-generation transdermal beauty devices, the researchers said. Emerging startups and biotech-cosmetic collaborations are also expanding product offerings to include microarray patches integrated with nanocarriers and scalp microneedle systems, for example.
As research and development continues to build, so too does clinical evidence validating the “superior efficacy, safety and user acceptability” of microneedling, the researchers said – across multiple cosmetic applications, from anti-ageing and skin brightening through to acne management, hydration and hair growth promotion. According to the review, microneedling offers “minimally invasive, precise and controlled transdermal delivery” of actives, leading to results only previously attainable through invasive treatments.
And ongoing innovation in the field, they said, is set to redefine possibilities in the future. “The continuous evolution toward smart, stimuli-responsive and nanocarrier-integrated microneedles further expands their versatility, enabling personalized and adaptive skincare approaches that respond dynamically to individual skin conditions,” the researchers wrote.
“...As interdisciplinary collaborations among dermatologists, material scientists and cosmetic formulators intensify, microneedle technology is poised to redefine the future of skincare–transforming passive cosmetic application into an active, intelligent and therapeutic dermal experience. With sustained innovation and responsible regulation, microneedle-based systems will undoubtedly become a cornerstone of next-generation aesthetic dermatology and personalised cosmetic care.”
Medical versus cosmetic
Looking ahead, though, the researchers said further clinical validation and standardized regulatory frameworks are needed to ensure safety and widen consumer acceptance and uptake.
Speaking to Premium Beauty News, Dr. Cuross Bakhtiar, cosmetic scientist and manager at UK clinic Harley Street Cosmetic, said focus on the regulatory side will be important as microneedling expands. “The whole process is that it’s supposed to help with penetrating products deeper into the skin. Now, this is where it becomes a bit of a grey area, because cosmetic products are not supposed to get into the skin, and [microneedle technologies] are attempting to do that,” Bakhtiar said. If claims are being made about very deep skin penetration of a cosmetic product because of use with a microneedling tool, for example, then it technically becomes a medical device and would need to be registered, he explained.
The review said regulatory pathways for microneedle-based cosmetics “remain complex”, with a lack of global harmonization. In the European Union, for example, microneedle systems intended for aesthetic enhancement without pharmacological action are classified as Class I medical devices or advanced cosmetic tools. In the US, the FDA regulates them based on intended use, classifying therapeutic microneedles as drug-device combinations but allowing purely cosmetic ones under cosmetic regulation if no systemic effect is claimed. In Asia, particularly in Korea and Japan, microneedle cosmetics such as dissolving HA patches have already received approval as quasi-drugs or functional cosmetics.
Bakhtiar said microneedling has been used in clinical settings for almost 20 years but it has always been a divisive treatment offering. When you consider its move into the home, therefore, where smaller tools and devices are being used by beauty consumers themselves, advances must be considered by any brand promoting it or working with it, he said. “You are cutting into the skin; microneedling is breaking skin surface,” he explained, and some people can react badly to that. Some people may bruise or swell after microneedling.
Any work to combine topical cosmetics with microneedling, Bakhtiar said, should come with solid expert advice and methods, and the topicals still need to be efficacious. “There needs to be a synergy between the two for one to work with the other,” he said.
Innovating and scaling – the challenges
The researchers acknowledged that “several scientific, technical and regulatory challenges” remain that must be addressed to secure a solid future for microneedle-based cosmetic systems. Long-term safety, durability under repeated use, and real-world performance across diverse skin types require further validation, for example. And large-scale production and material optimization hurdles also need to be overcome, given how complex and multistep manufacturing processes are behind these technologies, particularly multifunctional and smart microneedles. The area of smart microneedling, such as wearables and sensor-integrated platforms, is also vulnerable to data privacy, cybersecurity and regulatory compliance concerns, the researchers said.
“Addressing these economic, technical and ethical challenges alongside continued innovation will be essential to ensure the successful translation of next-generation microneedle technologies from laboratory concepts into reliable commercial and clinical applications.”
