Phyt’s launches Liberty Cherry, a glamorous red organic lipstick

Vincent Gallon

12 September 2011

A new item in the Phyt’s range of fully certified organic makeup: a lipstick where vegetable oils are combined with natural red cherry pigments. A colour that is hardly available into natural ranges. Nadine Fabréga, Scientific Director of the Jérodia Group and, as such, responsible for the research and development of the Phyt’s, Laboratoires Dermatologiques Gamarde and BioNatural brands, lays down the details for Premium Beauty News by

Red glamour

Like any other product in the Phyt’s organic makeup range, the Liberty Cherry lipstick is composed entirely of natural ingredients. Furthermore, Laboratoires Phyt’s announce for this product a proportion of ingredients from organic farming reaching 80%, i.e. all of the botanical ingredients. An achievement in itself. But the cherry red colour is what distinguishes most Liberty Cherry from the rest of the organically certified makeup line developed by the French company, in contrast with the softer and more "nature” colours featured in the rest of the range .

"It is likely to add value to the existing range, which was very well received by women yet, despite its very innovative characteristics," says Nadine Fabréga. Indeed it is no surprise that the demand is strong for this glamorous and seductive shade. "It was a recurring demand from consumers, transmitted to us by the beauticians that distribute our line."

The challenge of natural colours

However, as far as makeup is concerned, formulating organic products remain a tour de force. On the one hand, the first organic makeup launches are relatively recent, when compared with toiletries or personal care products and, on the other hand, the range of natural colours that are currently available is much smaller that what the chemicals industry can offer.

"Natural makeup is mostly limited by the colours available in the mineral world," confirms the Scientific Director of the Jérodia group. In order to obtain a plain red shade, Laboratoires Phyt’s have therefore turned to the red carmine pigment, a natural organic dye from South America, where it was already widely used by the Aztecs, before being imported into Europe at the end of 16th century. Obtained from the carminic acid produced by the female cochineal, it has long been used to dye clothes, before being replaced by synthetic dyes. However it is still widely used in cosmetics (referenced under CI 75470 in Europe, and Natural Red 4 in the U.S.) and in food (E 120 in Europe).

While it does not present the same risk of impurities that require a strict control of mineral pigments, because of its organic origin carmine is more likely to trigger allergic reactions. The Laboratoires Phyt’s were keen to take every precaution at this level. "The extract we use is very well tolerated in the product where the concentration is limited. We noted no significant effect in the tests we have made," says Nadine Fabréga. "It’s a perfectly legitimate ingredient in organic product, it is authorized both by the Qualité France standard and by the new European-wide Cosmos standard. We had to find a balance between consumer demand for bright red and a sensitive ingredient to formulate. It was important that the range remains attractive; otherwise the consumers would switch back to conventional makeup. "

Moisturizing and protective effect

Actually, Liberty Cherry does not shine only through its colour. It is also a real lip care. In addition to the glossy effect, the presence of many organic vegetable oils (castor, sunflower, jojoba) helps protect the lips, so does a very large amount of shea butter that, according to Nadine Fabréga, represents a key step forward. "It’s an ingredient that was absent from previous Phyt’s lipsticks. It provides essential nourishing elements as well as the physical characteristics of smoothness, melting ability, wealth, substantivity, and comfort to the lipstick."

Add to this, the effect of another novelty: the presence of antioxidants in synergy, from the rosemary and vitamin E that fight against free radicals and the effects of ageing on the lips. Not to mention the presence of natural waxes (beeswax, candelilla, and carnauba) that bring a good lasting to the whole product.

The Phyt’s Liberty Cherry lipstick will be available on in mid-October, in the beauty salons and department stores that already distribute the brand.

Other new products are the pipe since the Laboratoires Phyt’s carry on developing their organic range, including the creation of new product creations. The imminent release of a matifying compact powder is announced.