Fragrance is changing the way it is experienced

Long associated with an alcohol-based formula, fragrance is now expanding into new formats, from mists and perfumed oils to hair mists and hybrid products.

This evolution is closely linked to the skinification of fragrance, bringing new expectations around comfort, texture and sensoriality. Alcohol-free and water-based fragrances fit naturally into this trend, while also opening up new creative possibilities.

NovaSilk®: two technologies, two experiences

It is in this context that Parfex is adding NovaSilk® and NovaSilk® Clear to its creative palette, two technologies developed by Iberchem, its sister company within Croda’s Fragrance & Flavours division.

NovaSilk® is based on a macroemulsion that gives the formula a milky or subtly pearlescent appearance, combined with a fluid, enveloping texture directly inspired by the sensory codes of cosmetics.

NovaSilk® Clear uses a transparent microemulsion, offering a lighter, fresher sensory experience.

Both variants can, depending on the fragrance composition and product concept, accommodate fragrance loads of up to 20%. They therefore offer different creative possibilities, from the enveloping feel of NovaSilk® to the transparency and lightness of NovaSilk® Clear.

Performance and responsibility

For brands and perfumers alike, going alcohol-free cannot come at the expense of performance. Eight-hour testing shows that NovaSilk® maintains a more consistent olfactive presence on skin and blotter than a traditional ethanol-based formula.

“Developing alcohol-free fragrances means rethinking formulation as a whole. With NovaSilk®, we can work with a different delivery system while maintaining long-lasting olfactive performance. For perfumers, this is particularly interesting because it opens up new sensory possibilities without compromise,” said Olivier Coli, Application Laboratory Manager, Parfex.

Thanks to its concentrated format, NovaSilk® also offers a more sustainable approach, eliminating the use of alcohol during production and transport. This helps optimize logistics and storage processes while reducing the carbon footprint of brands’ supply chains.

Parfex: turning technology into creativity

For Parfex, these technologies are first and foremost tools for creation. They allow perfumers to consider new parameters — texture, diffusion, touch and perception — when developing fragrances and to support brands in creating formats at the intersection of perfumery and cosmetics.

By combining olfactive expertise, sensoriality and formulation innovation, Parfex turns the evolution of alcohol-free fragrance into a new creative field.

A new generation of fragrances is taking shape: freer in format, closer to the codes of cosmetics and always driven by the pursuit of performance. By also drawing on Croda’s cosmetic active ingredients, Parfex can extend this approach, bringing together an olfactive signature and a cosmetic benefit within the same formula.