Perfumers are conquering new territories, taking inspiration from fruits, vegetables and refreshing delights that appeal to a new, lighter addiction as part of a health-conscious lifestyle. Wellness and health have become a priority for all generations, including the generation that fully appropriâtes these ideas in a collective and conscientious spirit by adopting the vegan and flexitarian movements.
Cherry, banana, plum and pear... Perfumers are rediscovering the true nature of these succulent fruits, which are no longer synonymous with lowend perfumes, and are proving their nobility as stars in all brands. They express their complex and fresh character and their addictive tones in prestige and niche perfumery.
Why do you like to work on fruity notes?
Isaac Sinclair - The world of fruit is like an adventurous playground because there are a myriad of different fruit notes to use and be inspired by. Whether super ripe, fresh and crisp or succulent and juicy, each fruit gives its personality to a fragrance in a different way, creating infinite olfactory possibilities, nuances, facets and colours.
How do you see their evolution?
Isaac Sinclair - I think that unusual and exotic fruits will become more and more popular, simply because the most common fruity notes such as pear, apple, peach, have been overused.
What fruity notes do you use in your creations?
Isaac Sinclair - It depends a lot on the structure of the perfume. I like to use raspberry in fresh, woody compositions because its green and acidic character combines so well with others, and introduces an acidic effect in a perfume. In addition, I have used cherry in more oriental perfumes, sensual perfumes. I find that it adds a touch of complexity and another dimension to the balsamic elements.
When you traveled through the Amazon in Brazil, were there any fruits you discovered there that are interesting or perfumery ?
Isaac Sinclair - Brazil is the country of fruits, and the Amazon region in particular. When I first came here, I couldn’t believe that cashew nuts grow at the end of an extremely tasty fruit that is perfect for fresh and ultra-colourful compositions such as Caipirinha, Brazil’s national cocktail. Another interesting fruit, cupuaçu, is the little known cousin of cocoa that I use in some floral fragrances for example. It adds a curious milky effect that I love.
How do you perceive the arrival of vegetables in perfumery, especially those launched by Symrise?
Isaac Sinclair - The ingredients in the new Garden Lab collection open up a new realm of possibilities in modern perfumery, and allow us to add unexpected and innovative facets to our creations. I particularly like our leek which, perhaps against all odds, stimulates and brings naturalness to fruity top notes like blackcurrant and guava.