Unsurprisingly for an organic beauty event, the quest for sustainability was the key market driver at Vivaness 2022. Indeed, sustainability concerns continue to grow among European consumers who had to cope with record temperatures and unprecedented droughts during this summer. Within this general framework, plastic-free and zero waste, the rise of natural and sustainable oral care, and local sourcing, turned out to be the main trends that emerged from the show floor.
Plastic-free and zero waste
Solid cosmetics and zero waste concepts continued to be popular, with slew of new and indie brands introducing water-free/water-conscious products.
French solid beauty pioneer Lamazuna presented its new solid perfumes while fellow French brand Balade en Provence introduced a solid eye cream based on borage oil. Similarly, Italy’s Everyday for Future, a recently launched vegan brand, showcased a quartet of twist-up face and eye serums.
As far as German companies are concerned, zero waste brand Niyok introduced a solid hand cream; 4 People Who Care showcased a solid SPF50 sun cream called Naseweiss; and CMD Naturkosmetik joined the powder products trend with a foaming powder cleanser for hair. Let’s also not the makeup remover glove based on natural plant fibres developed by emerging beauty brand Nakt. Crowd-funded start-up Fabel‘s multipurpose makeup sticks are hand-made in Berlin, based on fair trade shea butter and clad in locally-produced paper packaging. Eventually, DIY zero waste beauty brand Hello Simple, which started out with deo creams in 2016, has also recently brought out a lip-and-cheek colour stick.
Some Asian exhibitors were able to participate in the show. Among them was Taiwanese beauty brand Naveen, which presented a sachet-free undereye mask. The cardboard-packaged mask set contains dry undereye masks with the serum packaged separately in a glass flacon.
Focus on oral care
The zero-waste and water-free/water-conscious trend has also been driving product development in the oral care market. This product category was very prominent at Vivaness 2022, with a lot of water-free toothpaste alternatives such as tooth cleaning powders and tablets.
Teethlovers, for example, introduced its range of four differently flavoured tooth cleansing powders in late 2020 while fellow German start-up Zahnheld and its stylishly packaged vegan toothpastes and toothpaste tabs were launched in 2021.
German brand Apeiron presented a new mint-flavoured tooth cleaning powder with cardamom, neem and cloves, while Italian manufacturer Gala Cosmetici, formulated their new Bio Happy Whitening Tooth Powder with charcoal powder, eucalyptus and ginger essential oils.
Plastic-free alternatives for manual tooth brushes and heads of electric/sonic toothbrushes were also a big trend at Vivaness 2022. There were also several exhibitors showing plastic-free and/or vegan interdental brushes or dental floss.
Sweden’s The Humble, one of the first European brands to launch bamboo handled manual toothbrushes back in in 2013, presented its recently launched replacement heads for electric toothbrushes which are made completely from renewable materials including cornstarch, bamboo and castor oil.
German brand Truemorrow which was launched a couple of years ago also introduced replacement heads made from renewable raw materials as well as plastic-free and vegan dental floss (which comes packaged in glass or stainless steel according to preference).
Localism was the third big trend visible on the show floor, with brands highlighting locally produced hand-made small batches or focusing on locally sourced actives and botanicals.
Bavarian start-up brand Rose and Ann, for instance, manufactures rosehip kernel oil from food-waste rosehip kernels sourced from a local jam company. The upcycled, cold-pressed oils are then blended with plant stem cells.
Fellow local start-up Raw Naturkosmetik produces its cold-pressed plant oil-based beauty products by hand. Based in Baden-Württemberg, the company says each product is based on a key oil, like poppy seed, pumpkin seed, black cumin or hemp.
Spirit of Rügen is another recently launched German indie brand. Its products are hand-made on the small island of Rügen which is famous for its white chalk cliffs, and several of its beauty products feature the famous healing Rügen chalk.
Dutch brand Van Toen Remedies showcased classic European apothecary style healing balms and lotions in a modern organic interpretation. The range includes a self-warming soothing balm, cooling lotions for sore muscles, a healing arnica lotion and plant-based vaseline.
With their new range, Naked, German mass market beauty brand Hej Organic, showed that organic beauty can be just as functional as conventional cosmetic products. The new line offers a micellar water, serum, enzyme peeling and face cream formulated without fragrance components and with high percentages of targeted actives, like vitamin C, azelaic acid, bakuchiol and zinc PCA.
The next Vivaness will take place at its usual winter dates, from 14th to 17th February 2023.