Well-known for its ranges of natural exfoliators, its algae extracts and decorative particles, Lessonia is strengthening its offering of active ingredients by addressing the healthy-aging trend. At the in-cosmetics Global tradeshow (which was held on 18-19 April 2018 in Amsterdam, The Netherlands), the French company showcased Healthyskin, a cosmetic active ingredient designed to improve the skin’s hydration and barrier function.
“We answer to the needs of the cosmetic industry’s big names by offering an active ingredient with metabolic and innovative paths. This active is a concrete and scientific transposition of the health & well-ageing trend as it aims to restore the physiological mechanisms of the skin health,” explains Charles-Henri Morice innovation manager at Lessonia.
According to Lessonia, Healthyskin restores healthy epidermal physiological mechanisms for a visibly younger and healthier appearance.
A clinical test against placebo showed that the hydration and the barrier function are improved (+16,50 % after 28 days (p<0,001).
Healthyskin also boosts all processes essential to proper epidermal reconstruction: differentiation, cornification and desquamation. A clinical test conducted on 20 volunteers shows that 1% Healthyskin improves the skin renewal, that is more than doubled in just 4 days (p<0,01).
Eventually, a third clinical test shows that 1% Healthyskin decreases the skin micro-relief, up to - 42,9% after 28 days(p<0,02) thus improving the skin texture.
Healthyskin derives from a marine microorganism called Pseudoalteromonas carrageenovora that lives in symbiosis with some gigartina seaweeds. It is involved in the digestion of a polysaccharide by secreting an enzyme called carraghenase. The microorganism synthesizes an important quantity of enzymes thus releasing oligo-carrageenans which activate the defence and the repair system of the seaweed.
To develop Healthyskin, Lessonia worked in cooperation with the the marine glycobiology research branch of the CNRS , which highlighted this mechanism. The patent pending active is produced in two steps: culture of the micro-organism in a bioreactor to obtain the enzyme, then enzymatic hydrolysis of the marine carrageenan.
Healthyskin is the third marine active developed by Lessonia (after Fucowhite, an anti-ageing active ingredient for sensitive skin, and Fucoreverse, an organic certified whitening active ingredient).
“Lately, we observe a shift in the conception of the ageing. The time is to the acceptance of our age and of its signs on the skin. Customers do not necessary look for appearing younger anymore, but want to be in harmony with their age. Healthyskin is a scientific translation of this trendy concept. Furthermore, this ‘green’ biotechnology answers to the requirements of cosmetic groups for sustainable development with a new way to manufacture bioactive molecules,” concluded Charles-Henri Morice.
Cosmetic ingredients 2018
More information on the “ageing well” and “pro age” trends that are shaking the beauty industry,as well as on corresponding ingredients solutions, is available in the special issue on Cosmetic Ingredients published by Premium Beauty News on the occasion of the in-cosmetics Global show, which took place at RAI Amsterdam on 17-19 April 2018.
Contents: “Ageing well”: A new strategic target for cosmetics - Trends: The pro-aging revolution - Interview: “The genetic identity card of well-ageing”, David Boudie, Silab - New ingredients
Check the special issue here.