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Science, R&D

Kamax Innovative develops breakthrough method to assess cosmetic actives

Thanks to its patented XPolar technology, the Kamax Innovative startup broadens optical observation of cosmetic active performance to a new light dimension: polarization. This cutting-edge innovation finds applications in a field always eager for new technologies: testing and assessment.

érôme Desroches, President and founder of Kamax Innovative

érôme Desroches, President and founder of Kamax Innovative

Founded in 2013, Kamax Innovative conducted research work in a university in partnership with CNRS to develop a unique optical imaging technology for which they hold exclusive licenses. “We use polarization as an information vehicle to record contrasts and differences in the activity of a cosmetic product on the skin or hair,” explains Jérôme Desroches, President and founder of the startup.

Using the K-PROBE device, a next generation automated microscope, the XPolar technology accurately reads contrast differences and quantifies biological modifications on dermal collagen and hair keratin.

We accurately monitor dermal collagen and measure the direct effects of stress factors, like UV rays or oxidation, which can appear on in vitro skin, or the chemical impact of colourants, for example hair colourants,” adds Jérôme Desroches.

Other than the new dimension of the results provided, the technology offers multiple key advantages. The sample does not get coloured like it does with the standard observation technique, which requires a visual marker likely to create a bias. With the XPolar test, the sample remains clear of any added substance, so the result is endogenous and more reliable.

We observe a natural XPolar signature made possible thanks to light and demonstrate the activity of products in cosmetics without any particular sample preparation. In addition, our technique helps discover previously unknown actions. It goes beyond the standard technique,” says Jérôme Desroches.

Using the K-PROBE device, a next generation automated microscope, the...

Using the K-PROBE device, a next generation automated microscope, the XPolar technology accurately reads contrast differences and quantifies biological modifications on dermal collagen and hair keratin.

Ultimately, this “contact-free” technology only requires a low-power optical laser beam and does not degrade the slides, which can be reused for additional tests. Then, it is all scanned and digitized with a fully digital device ensuring easier data sharing.

Launched a year ago, the XPolar technology has already seduced testing laboratories through the services developed by Kamax. The comprehensive solution combining the imaging system and the image processing software solution is now offered to small and major cosmetics groups.

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