To reduce the environmental footprint of its perfumes, the LVMH Group’s brand has joined forces with Intact Regenerative, a startup specializing in the processing of legumes such as peas and broad beans. Through an innovative low-carbon fermentation process, Intact has developed a new generation of ultra-neutral alcohol designed for use in the perfume, cosmetics, spirits, and pharmaceutical industries.

Dubbed Pulse, the new alcohol is part of a circular approach based on the transformation of organic pulses (the edible seeds from a legume plant). Known for their ability to fix atmospheric nitrogen and thereby enhancing soil fertility, legumes provides an alternative to the use of nitrogen-based fertilizers.

After two years of collaborative development with Intact, Guerlain becomes the first perfume house to incorporate Pulse into one of its creations, L’Homme Idéal Cologne Forte.

“Alcohol is a central ingredient in our perfumer’s craft. Intact’s innovation is a strategic and structuring project, as it enables us to contribute more actively to soil regeneration while preserving pollinators through practices derived from organic agriculture. It fully aligns with our partnership-driven approach with our suppliers,” said Claire Coletti, Guerlain Global Sustainability Director.

Carbon footprint reduction

Built on a circular design, the process developed by Intact enables the full valorization of non-food plant residues. Following a waterless extraction, starch-rich by-products are converted into an ultra-neutral alcohol through successive purification, fermentation, distillation, and rectification stages. At the same time, the cellulose-rich fibers are repurposed as the primary energy source to fuel the distillation process.

The production of Intact’s alcohol relies entirely on renewable energy and low-carbon electricity. The life-cycle assessment (LCA) conducted for this alcohol shows a greenhouse gas emissions reduction of more than 80% compared with conventional neutral alcohols (sugar beet/wheat).

Beyond its environmental performance, this alcohol meets the high-quality standards required in perfumery. According to Guerlain, its extra-neutral profile ensures excellent homogeneity and long-term stability.

Additional solutions are currently being developed and tested to lessen the environmental impact of alcohol used in perfumery. In 2023, Coty introduced a Gucci fragrance formulated with 100% ethanol derived from recycled carbon, produced by LanzaTech.