The IFSCC jury recognized a major breakthrough in understanding how skin ages and develops pigmentation. Greentech’s research sheds light on the direct role of the nervous system in triggering localized melanin overproduction.
Uncovering the neuronal mechanisms behind pigmentation
The award-winning research, entitled “In vitro 3D Neuro-Mimetic Human Skin Model Reveals a Tissue-Level Role of Neuronal RGMB Signalling in Focal Hyperpigmentation and Pigmentary Ageing”, identifies a previously underexplored mechanism involved in the formation of age-related dark spots.
While research into hyperpigmentation has traditionally focused on melanocytes and keratinocytes, Greentech’s study demonstrates the direct involvement of the skin’s sensory neurons. Specifically, it identifies RGMB, a molecule released by sensory neurons, as a signalling factor that contributes to localized melanin overproduction.
A 3D model to investigate skin neurobiology
To investigate these interactions, Greentech worked with LabSkin Creations to develop a reconstructed, pigmented human skin model incorporating neuro-mimetic features. Unlike conventional 2D cell cultures, this 3D approach made it possible to study RGMB signalling and its effects at tissue level.
The model revealed that RGMB promotes remodeling of the epidermal pigmentary unit, increasing melanocyte dendricity and melanosome transfer to keratinocytes, resulting in greater melanin accumulation, particularly in the upper epidermal layers. The research also showed that UV exposure amplifies the tissue-level effects of RGMB.
From research to an anti-dark-spot active
These findings have provided the scientific basis for Greentech’s development of ILUMYS®, a natural active ingredient designed to reduce existing age spots and help prevent their formation.
The ingredient targets both melanin-related pigmentation and lipofuscin spots, another type of age-related skin discoloration that contributes to visible imperfections on the face and hands but is often overlooked by conventional anti-dark-spot ingredients.
By targeting neuronal signaling upstream of the epidermal pigmentary response, this research opens up new possibilities for anti-ageing skincare. It also illustrates the potential of neurocosmetics to address skin pigmentation through a more comprehensive understanding of the biological interactions between the nervous system and the skin.
Presented to Lauriane Imbert-Roux, Head of Biology at Greentech, the award recognizes the company’s work on the interactions between the nervous system and skin pigmentation.
“This discovery opens a whole new pathway for anti-aging dermo-cosmetics. By understanding the mechanisms of RGMB signaling at the tissue level, we can now design active ingredients capable of acting upstream, ‘calming’ the neuronal message even before it stimulates the epidermal pigmentary unit. This marks the dawn of cutting-edge, ultra-targeted, and biologically respectful neuro-cosmetics,” highlights the researcher.
