Grasse once boasted over 200 hectares dedicated to jasmine cultivation, compared to only about twenty today. Today, that figure has dwindled to around 20 hectares, largely due to fierce competition from producers in India and China, as well as Egypt and Morocco. Yet, contrary to popular belief, local production is not under threat, although it can be affected by extreme weather events, particularly those associated with climate change.
Grasse jasmine has become a rare raw material, reserved for the luxury brands able to afford its exceptionally high price. It ranks among the most expensive ingredients in the global perfume industry, with certain extracts commanding tens or even hundreds of thousands of euros per kilo.
A visit to Alexandra Richard’s organic farm in Montauroux, as part of the dsm-firmenich immersion in the heart of Grasse jasmine country, offered insight into the meticulous care and expertise required to cultivate this “flower of the night.”
In the fields
Jasmine grandiflorum flowers open towards the end of the day and throughout the night, releasing their most precious fragrance at dawn. This is why Alexandra Richard and her team – two to four people, depending on the season – rise before daybreak to harvest the flowers from the approximately 6,000 plants spread across 5,000 square metres. The fragrance profile of jasmine evolves over the course of the season, and even throughout the day. In August, fruity notes with hints of banana prevail. By September, greener facets emerge, while October brings nuances of dried apricot and strawberry, revealing what is considered the most prized expression of jasmine grandiflorum. Harvesting therefore takes place in the early morning, before excessive sun exposure can trigger the development of animalic notes. At this time of day, the flower’s scent is softer and fresher.
Each delicate flower is picked individually. Pickers gently pinch and detach the bloom, taking care not to damage the petals and allowing a new flower to emerge the following night. An experienced picker can harvest around 600 grams of flowers per hour, equivalent to three to four kilos a day. Across the Grasse region, annual production amounts to just 15 to 20 tonnes. These limited volumes are a key factor behind the scarcity and high price of this precious raw material.
Once harvested, the flowers are collected in large wicker baskets and transported fresh to dsm-firmenich’s Grasse factory, which specialises in the extraction of natural ingredients. The fragrance house has signed a five-year partnership with Alexandra Richard, committing to purchase her entire annual harvest. The agreement guarantees the grower a reliable market for her production while securing a supply of jasmine for the perfumer.
To make the most of these limited volumes, dsm-firmenich processes the grower’s flowers with Firgood, its innovative solvent-free extraction technology. Designed to preserve the distinctive characteristics of the raw material while minimising the environmental impact of the process, this technology produces an extract whose olfactory profile remains remarkably faithful to that of the fresh flower. “This jasmine is unparalleled in the world. No other flower can rival its unique olfactory profile, with its petal-like, jammy facets and notes of dried fruit and strawberry,” says dsm-firmenich perfumer Fabrice Pellegrin.
From fresh flower to fragrance
Patented and launched in 2021, dsm-firmenich’s Firgood technology enables the extraction of aromatic plants without the use of petrochemical solvents, opening up new olfactory possibilities. “With Firgood, we can develop entirely new olfactory profiles, including extracts of green bell pepper, strawberry, ginger and lavandin, as well as, more recently, ripened white pepper, with its animalic facets, and ripened bay leaf, with its mineral and marine notes,” explains Sophie Lavoine, botanist and researcher at dsm-firmenich. Of the 30 ingredients developed using the technology to date, 20 have already been incorporated into perfumers’ palettes. Among them is Jasmin Pays Firgood (produced by dsm-firmenich from flowers harvested around Grasse), which features in Rabanne’s Fame fragrance.
dsm-firmenich is also exploring, in collaboration with its Beauty & Care division, opportunities to valorise the residual biomass generated by the extraction process. Currently, this material is either composted or, where possible, reused to produce other extract variants. Furthermore, the company plans to acquire a second industrial-scale unit dedicated to Firgood extraction to keep pace with growing demand.
A flower with many facets
During a workshop dedicated to jasmine, Etienne Bouckaert, senior perfumer and director of creation and innovation for natural ingredients at dsm-firmenich, explained that “60% of the global production of jasmine grandiflorum destined for perfumery comes from Egypt.” Its olfactory profile differs considerably from that of Jasmin Pays Firgood.
Egyptian jasmine is characterised by powerful, voluptuous and indolic notes, whereas Jasmin Pays Firgood offers a softer, more delicate profile. The dsm-firmenich palette also features Jasmine Morning India ABS and Jasmine Flower India SFE ABS, both obtained from Jasminum grandiflorum flowers cultivated in India. Sambac jasmine, grown mainly in India and China, is another widely used ingredient in perfumery. Together with grandiflorum, it is one of the two main jasmine species used by the industry. Less expensive than grandiflorum, sambac offers a greener olfactory profile with a variety of nuanced facets.
Synthetic compositions and blends further expand dsm-firmenich’s portfolio, which includes around twenty jasmine references. These range from Jasmine Tea Nature Print, a harmonious combination of green notes and floral freshness, to Jasmine Rice Ice Cream, an indulgent and comforting blend of rice milk, orange blossom and sambac jasmine. Both compositions reflect contemporary olfactory trends and are particularly popular with brands. They are also highly accessible, with prices below 100 euros per kilo.
