Hair care is no exception to the general green trend impacting the personal care market. According to Givaudan Active Beauty, 91% of consumers are interested in the concept of clean beauty for hair care and seek products that are free from synthetics, preferring those made from natural ingredients .
A 100% natural alternative
To address this demand, researchers of Givaudan Active Beauty have developed Naturein Wheat Peptides , a new natural detangling active for hair care products obtained from wheat and crafted by green fractionation. Locally sourced in the region surrounding Givaudan Active Beauty’s industrial facilities in France, the new ingredient is 100% natural. It has been developed to be used as a conditioner to smooth and detangle the hair. As such, it is an alternative to cationic guar, one of the most used chemical ingredients in the hair care market. It is mainly used as a conditioning agent in shampoos, hair conditioners and hair styling products.
Actually, cationic molecules are obtained by chemical modifications to give them a positive charge. These molecules include among other the polyquaternium family, and hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride - modified guar or starch polymers. They are mostly non-biodegradable and considered as bringing extra pollution to aquatic environments.
Replacing modified guar polymers by clean and natural solutions would therefore bring important benefits to the shampoos and conditioners markets.
Clinical tests have been performed to evaluate the impact of Naturein Wheat Peptides on wet and dry hair. Two double blind and placebo-controlled studies were carried out, each of them on 40 volunteers. In each study, 20 volunteers applied placebo and 20 volunteers applied shampoo with Naturein Wheat Peptides at 3% or Hydroxylpropyl Guar Hydroxylpropyltrimonium chloride at 0.3%.
The results, as unveiled by Givaudan, show that the wheat peptides extract significantly improved (+20%) the detangling on wet hair (versus +15% with 0.3% cationic guar). In addition, it significantly improves (+22%) the combing and smoothness of dry hair (versus 5% with 0.3% cationic guar).
Two additional effective results have also been perceived by the panel: after applying the active product, 80% of the participants said their hair did feel good (versus 40% of those who used the placebo) and 70% said that their hair was easier to untangle (versus 45% of those who used the placebo).
“To prove the effectiveness of our natural active ingredient, we opted for tests that put Naturein Wheat Peptides in competition with cationic guar. Results prove that it is more effective in record time. All clinical tests carried out on a hundred people demonstrate the excellence of Naturein Wheat Peptides,” said Amandine Scandolera, Ph.D, Head of Biological Evaluation.
To illustrate how this new ingredient can be used, Givaudan has formulated a leave-in conditioning spray using Naturein Wheat Peptides and ResistHyal, a hair beauty enhancer containing an optimised ratio of low and high molecular weight hyaluronic acids. These two hair care actives have been mixed with Buruti and Moringa oils for repair and Saffron flower and guarana extract to strengthen the hair.
Givaudan will present the illustrative formulation and the new ingredient at their booth during in-cosmetics Latin America in Sấo Paulo from 18-19 September.