While it is widely known that skin texture degradation is one of the key signs that betray age, it is also one of the most difficult to correct. "Under the action of age and environment (pollution, UV) skin becomes thinner, with a drier and rougher surface and dead cells are more difficult to eliminate," explains Gattefossé. “Contrary to wrinkles and sagging, skin texture cannot be corrected by injections or surgical procedures, nor fully hidden by make-up.”
Gatuline Renew has been designed to address specifically the problem of skin texture. According to Gattefossé, the active relaunches the cell renewal mechanism, restoring the capacity of the skin to regenerate and defend itself, thus restoring a perfect, smooth skin, both to the eye and to touch.
In vivo and ex vivo tests
“Used at only 1% in formulation, it rebuilds the epidermis and restores efficient skin barrier function. In a blind study versus placebo, panelists showed significantly higher appraisal levels for the half-face treated with the active cream - it is smoother, more radiant and look healthier. A use-test demonstrates suitability for sensitive skins,” highlights the French company.
The active’s action throughout the epidermis was demonstrated in vitro and ex vivo on advanced skin models.
“Tested on 3D cellular models and skin biopsies, the biological mechanism is fully understood and documented,” claims Gattefossé.
The company thus demonstrated that Gatuline Renew increases keratinocyte energy and boosts all processes essential to proper epidermal reconstruction: proliferation, differentiation, cornification and desquamation. It increases the biosynthesis of key ceramides, improving corneocyte cohesion. As a result, the thickness of the healthy living epidermal layers is visibly increased. “The skin fully recovers its barrier function ensuring optimal preservation of water content and improved auto-regulation.”
Gatuline Renew is an extract of buds of Cryptomeria japonica, a Japanese cedar tree which grows in the clean air environment of the French Reunion Island. The buds, harvested by hand from the lower parts of the trees, are air dried and sent to Gattefossé’s French production site near Lyon for extraction.
These buds contain a high amount of skin-stimulating molecules including a specific diterpenoid named isopimaric acid which is a signature molecule of the plant species and the main contributor to the skin renewal efficacy. They also contain high levels of polyphenols, peptides, sugars and lipidic compounds.
Obtained using vegetable-derived solvents, this ECOCERT/ COSMOS approved and NPA certified ingredient can be used in natural and organic cosmetic lines. Gattefossé also says that Gatuline Renew is fully traced from plant to pack.
In order to illustrate the formulation possibilities offered by its active, Gattefossé has showcased several skin care formulations during in-cosmetics: a skin rejuvenation elixir, a daily revitalizer, a powdery blur reinvented, a night regenerator, a reviving body cocoon.