The French supplier of ingredients for the beauty and health sectors marks 30 years of its in-house sensory panel this year.
Since 1996, Gattefossé has developed a structured approach to understand and measure sensory perceptions, supporting the creation of high-performance personal care formulations from the very design of its ingredients.
A panel of trained experts
From the creation of its internal sensory panel, Gattefossé implemented a set of methodologies to measure, analyze, and interpret the sensory properties of its formulations. Over time, this work has led to the creation of a centralized database linking hundreds of formulas with detailed sensory profiles, now used both for internal product development and market benchmarking.
Today, this work relies on an in-house panel of 17 trained judges in France, compared to 9 at its inception. Drawn from the cosmetic and pharmaceutical sectors, these judges take part in two sensory evaluation sessions per week. Conducted in short time slots, each session allows multiple formulas to be assessed, including products developments, customers projects, comparative tests, and market products.
The panel is renewed in waves, roughly every five years, with new members trained as needed to maintain enough skilled judges and ensure statistically reliable results. Continuity is also supported by experienced members, including one person who has been with the panel since the beginning.
“Our expertise in lipid chemistry allows us to closely connect ingredient properties with the sensations they deliver. The challenge is to transform perception into objective, measurable data, guiding our developments and providing concrete insights for our clients,” explains Vincent Hubiche, Global Applications Manager Personal Care at Gattefossé.
From physico-chemistry to consumer experience
The panel’s analysis grid is based on the physico-chemical properties of formulations: texture upon application, spreadability, absorption, and residual film…
According to Gattefossé, this approach enables precise system adjustments and the design of differentiated textures that meet consumer expectations.
“Sensory performance plays a key role in first impressions, product usage, and long-term loyalty. By understanding the connection between molecular structure and perceived texture, Gattefossé develops ingredients that deliver a distinctive sensory signature — noticeable, differentiating, and effective even at low dosages,” the company emphasizes.
Sensory analysis thus supports Gattefossé’s innovation strategy, fostering collaboration between R&D chemists and formulators to create distinctive textures with proven effectiveness. It also supports the group’s international expansion, as illustrated by the recent opening of a space dedicated to sensory analysis in its Technical Center of Excellence in Shanghai, China.
“China is composed of highly knowledgeable consumers with very high expectations regarding texture and skin feel. With our new sensory analysis facility in Shanghai, our French and Chinese experts will collaborate to design innovative ingredients tailored to this market,” says Paula Lennon, Group Director Personal Care at Gattefossé.
