Capsum reasserts its commitment to transforming cosmetics formulation! Driven by its inherent spirit of disruption, the company based in the city of Marseille, in the south of France, continues to invest in R&D, while building on the patented microfluidic technology that made it successful.
Where formulation meets efficacy
Capsum’s main innovation priority is focused on improving how it evaluates the performance of its offering. To this aim, the manufacturer recently launched the High Performance capsule designed to evaluate both the perception of its formulas and their intrinsic activity.
Consumer tests were carried out on several active-free textures, with significant results when it comes to sensoriality and functional benefits, in particular hydration and skin radiance. The data collected confirms that the formula, regardless of the actives, is a performance driver in itself.
“The way we structure our formulas provides an ideal environment for the actives and ensures efficacy that is immediately felt by consumers; it is a differentiating factor that we aim to keep promoting and objectifying,” explains Laurie Dewandel, Communication Director.
To support this approach, the company invested in the VISIA skin imaging and analysis system for its R&D laboratory.
Preserving the most trendy actives
Second priority: preserving the fragile actives highly popular among consumers.
In this regard, Capsum highlights the benefits of its microfluidic technology. Although they are powerful, next-generation, cutting-edge actives like exosomes are extremely sensitive to conventional formulation systems based on surfactants, which jeopardise biological performance. The microfluidic technology does not require surfactants, so it offers a particularly well-adapted solution to ensure stability, including that of many ingredients derived from regenerative medicine, like PDRN, NAD+, DNA/RNA, and proteins.
“Our expertise now makes it possible to implement a real formulation strategy that delivers results. It is key to develop the formula in a way that complements marketed actives,” sums up Dewandel.
In addition, Capsum will enter the SPF makeup and skincare segment this year by launching a line named Glow Guard. “This is a lever for the US market, which is in high demand for formulas incorporating additional sun protection,” she says.
Open innovation
Historically focused on innovation, the company aimed to extend this raison d’être through an independent entity meant to support the development of future-oriented projects. Launched in late 2025, Capsum Campus hosts four young companies which address key challenges for the future of the industry, including plant-based active sourcing, sensoriality, and responsible management of resources.
“Capsum Campus is home to four startups working on very different B2B projects, but all sharing the ambition to sustainably reinvent tomorrow’s cosmetics. We aim to support them, both with our own experience and through sharing means,” explains Dewandel.
The strategy combines in-house project incubation with Næmos, Solifeel, Credido, and investments in an external startup, Orius.
Capsum acquired an equity stake in Orius as early as 2021, when it launched its indoor production unit for plant-based raw materials at its Austin, Texas facility. Specialising in precision indoor cultivation solutions, the French startup maximizes the concentration of target molecules extracted from pesticide-free, year-round cultivated plants.
The three other entities are fully part of the Capsum group, while retaining operational autonomy, and are physically integrated within the facilities to foster synergies and access to shared resources.
Næmos is a young phytobiotechnology company founded in 2024. It connects skin sciences and precision plant cultivation to offer a new generation of cosmetic actives. By carefully controlling growing conditions and activating plants’ natural defence mechanisms through elicitation, it develops effective, sustainable, perfectly controlled actives. Headed by Estelle Loing, the startup will unveil its first portfolio of actives at the in-cosmetics 2026 show.
Led by Théophile Bassenne, Solifeel is working to re-enchant the product experience in solid cosmetics. Using extrusion technology, the company develops single-dose formats that deliver a transformative sensory experience upon contact with water, turning into foam for hygiene products, or cream for skincare. The first applications are expected this year.
Born out of an internal project, Crédido is developing a solar-powered water desalination system based on circular economy principles, with no impact on biodiversity, no use of chemicals, and no discharge into the sea. Initially designed to offset Capsum’s water footprint, the project is now being opened up to other industrial players.
Capsum is activating a whole innovation ecosystem to usher cosmetics into the realm of high technology!
