For Ex Nihilo, L Catterton’s backing, following its acquisition of Eurazeo’s minority stake in January, comes amid a period of strong momentum, with the brand having doubled in size over the past two years. The challenge now is to sustain this rapid growth. “With its deep expertise in the sector, distribution, and data — especially in the United States — L Catterton is a key strategic partner for Ex Nihilo’s development,” notes Benoît Verdier.
A retail network in full expansion
Thanks to L Catterton, the brand now benefits from an experienced pool of advisors, which it can leverage to gain easier access to major American department stores. To sustain this growth, Ex Nihilo aims to maintain a balance between expansion and exclusivity.
“While we’ve been present in retailers such as Saks and Bergdorf Goodman for over a decade, we are now looking to broaden our footprint through a carefully curated selection of department stores and concept stores, in line with our luxury positioning — such as The Webster and Luckyscent,” explains Benoît Verdier. Today, Ex Nihilo operates 80 points of sale in the United States, including 40 department stores. In January 2026, total retail sales (own boutiques and wholesale distribution) approached EUR 115 million in the US (approximately EUR 100 million). By 2028, the brand aims to reach 200 points of sale across all channels.
Ex Nihilo currently operates several standalone boutiques, notably in Paris, Los Angeles, and Hong Kong, with a reopening planned at Dubai Mall. Backed by L Catterton, the brand also intends to establish a presence in London and open three flagship stores in the United States — New York, Florida, and Texas — by 2028.
In Paris, the pop-up at 326 rue Saint-Honoré will become a permanent boutique in July 2026, replacing the brand’s historic location at 352. Ex Nihilo also operates a second address on rue François 1er and is expected to eventually unveil a third Parisian location.
After La Samaritaine and then Galeries Lafayette – where it will have a central display under the dome in June – Ex Nihilo will open a store-in-store at Le Bon Marché in April. “This marks a real change of scale,” explains Benoît Verdier.
Regarding geographic expansion, the executive noted that “the United States and Europe remain top priorities.” The Middle East continues to be a key market despite ongoing geopolitical uncertainties; the brand has been established there for over a decade and benefits from a loyal customer base. Meanwhile, Asia represents a major growth driver, where the brand already has a strong foothold — particularly in Korea, where the Blue Talisman and Lust In Paradise fragrances are experiencing notable success.
To sustainably support this international development, L Catterton’s backing also allows the brand to strengthen its teams. "A key element of the partnership," according to Verdier.
Digital retail is another major challenge. In this area, L Catterton’s data expertise is proving invaluable.
Highlighting bestsellers
On the product side, Ex Nihilo is prioritizing a simplification strategy, focusing on its flagship fragrances. For example, Fleur Narcotique and Blue Talisman are now available as Extraits. "We are also launching the Lust In Paradise Extrait on April 1st," adds Benoît Verdier. “Furthermore, we will unveil a wonderful new product in September, as we do every year, because we always strive to refresh our best-sellers.”
In parallel, Ex Nihilo continues to explore new formats, including limited editions, collaborations, and “digital drops.” These online-exclusive releases — often tied to a specific city or created in collaboration with an artist—are available for a very limited time. The strategy has proven highly successful: “all the pieces sell out within just a few hours,” confirms Verdier.
Creativity and service
“As an investor, L Catterton gives us complete creative freedom,” affirms the founder. Ex Nihilo continues its collaboration with Givaudan, notably with a core group of loyal perfumers, including Louise Turner and Jordi Fernandez. The brand also aims to continue collaborating with emerging talents, following in the footsteps of its early partnership with Quentin Bisch on Fleur Narcotique, and more recently with Gaël Montero on Chandigarh Express.
Personalization, using the Osmologue, remains a major strategic focus that the brand aims to strengthen. It plays a key role in the appeal of its own stores and is proving very popular with younger generations seeking singularity.
Ex Nihilo’s DNA is rooted in a true culture of service, enhanced by L Catterton’s data-driven expertise. Each personalized bottle is assigned a unique number, enabling the brand to track individual preferences. The house also offers in-store masterclasses, while a private space at the heart of its flagship on Rue Saint-Honoré welcomes clients in an exclusive setting. In addition, Ex Nihilo provides a bespoke fragrance creation service, developed in collaboration with a Master Perfumer selected alongside the client, following an in-depth olfactory consultation.
