Dubbed E-Pure Jungle Essence, Mane’s new range of floral extracts is obtained from a new and greener extraction method of fresh flowers.
Infusion and extraction
Dedicated to flowers that are too delicate to be transported, or to preserve all their facets during traditional treatments, the new technique is based on the principle of maceration in a fatty substance specific to the old enfleurage method, which has fallen into disuse due to its cost and low yields.
To create the E-Pure Jungle Essence, the Mane teams let fresh flowers infuse in a neutral vegetable oil until saturation. Then, the olfactory components of the E-Oil thus obtained are extracted by supercritical fluid to obtain an essence offering “a perfect balance between top and heart notes”.
A respectful process
This reinvented enfleurage only requires simple and relatively light equipment, easy to use next to the flower fields, for optimal freshness. The “enfleurage” step is performed with simple and light equipment using only natural vegetable oil a natural solvent to extract the aromatic molecules. This maceration process has a low energy consumption. The supercritical fluid extraction step that follows uses CO2, which collected from the outside air and returned to its gas form at the end of the process.
The E-Pure Jungle Essence range obtained from this process are natural aromatic extracts, as defined by the ISO 9235 standard. Furthermore, they can be used in formulations with the organic COSMOS label, which is not the case for absolutes extracted with the use of petrochemical solvents, therefore opening up new creative perspectives for organic perfumes.
“E-Pure Jungle Essence extracts highlight new floral facets, revealing unique olfactive opportunities. This environmentally friendly technique honours Nature’s beauty and refinement,” says Mane in a statement.
Three new floral extracts
According to Mane, E-Pure Jungle Essence extracts exhibit an extraordinary olfactive rendering. They unveil a flower’s natural and original note without the typical green and fatty undertones that are usually captured when using petrochemical solvents. Extracted at low temperature, the most delicate facets are preserved. E-Pure Jungle Essence extracts thus contain the most volatile molecules that reveal the flower’s freshness and the emotion it conveys.
The debut E-Pure Jungle Essence range features three floral extracts: Red Champaca, Jasmine Grandiflorum and Jasmin Sambac.
The Red Champaca E-Pure Jungle Essence offers an orange blossom scent, honeyed and indolent with a jasmine facet. It has a transparent, light yellow colour, a notable cosmetic advantage compared to the vivid blood red colour of the Red Champaca absolute, which is therefore difficult to integrate into a formula.
The Jasmine Grandiflorum E-Pure Jungle Essence offers a very present indolent facet, but unlike an absolute, has less animality.
The Sambac E-Pure Jasmine Jungle Essence makes us rediscover the flower in its natural state: it is much more jasmine, more orange blossom and, once again, much less animal than the absolute. According to Mane, this Sambac is airy, less indolent, less pharmaceutical, it brings an almost virginal femininity, a less heady seduction.
"Of course, the E-Pure Jungle Essence extracts are green ingredients, obtained without petrochemical solvents, at a very low environmental cost, but they are also extremely close to the flower’s natural scent. Compared to absolutes, their notes are less fatty, less vegetal, the quality of the extracts is exceptional, it is the flower exactly as we know it in nature", comments Serge Majoullier, senior perfumer at Mane, who closely participated in the development of the new process.