Value creation
In the not-too-distant future, the ability of personal care brands and their suppliers to create value will rest upon their ability to generate a transversal thinking, according to Gerald Martines, Director, New Product Development - Make-Up, Rexam Personal Care Division.
The industry veteran gave his vision at the recent PCD Congress in Paris, a worldwide “crossroads” show dedicated to packaging innovations for the perfume and cosmetic sectors.
“In the current, global economic context, it is critical to raise the bar on innovation in order to provide brand owners with novel solutions that address the challenges of our times, prepare us for the future and differentiate themselves from the competition,” Martines explained during his PCD Congress seminar.
“That is why we use the term transversal thinking,” Martines said. “Savvy marketers and suppliers will work together to knock down product category silos and develop new-breed offerings that create marketplace excitement through real end-user benefits”.
Mega-trends
According to Gerald Martines, formulations are impacted by mega-trends such the pursuit of ageless beauty, health, safety and comfort. Packaging is impacted by other mega-trends, such as concerns over sustainability, convenience, the never-ending quest for differentiation and the global move towards affordable premiumization.
“Industry leaders are at the crossroads of cultural anthropology, chemistry, engineering and commerce – an exciting place to be”.
According to Gerald Martines, key areas to watch include:
– Convergence. Martines anticipates more “hybrid” products, such as crossover cosmetic and skin-care offerings. The recently launched L’Oreal Collagen Care lipsticks are one example;
– Complex Formulations. More multi-purpose, fragile, preservative-free formulas are on the way, in virtually all market segments, from colour cosmetics to anti-aging serums.
– Diversification of Formula Chemical Composition. Lipsticks are an example, Martines states, with the growth of non-conventional formulas with softer textures, higher concentration of active ingredients, volatile chemical bases, etc. vs. the traditional “wax-and-pigment” products;
– Blurring of Boundaries Between Packaging Categories. It is predictable that airless packaging will see its applications grow outside of its traditional chasse gardée of skincare and into colour cosmetics, for example, according to Martines.
– Integrated Packaging Solutions. Such as compacts that conveniently and cleanly dispense loose powder or liquid formulations, instead of the traditional pressed powder.
– New Regulations. With more stringent regulations applicable to cosmetics on the way by 2011, we may expect development of more hybrid products.
“Thus, we will see more active ingredients, less structural additives and preservatives and more multi-benefit formulas – resulting in packaging that offers neutrality, airtight design, high barrier properties, UV protection, precision dosage, and new dispensing systems for non-conventional formulas,” Martines said. “We are in a fast-changing, challenging environment – it is an incredibly exciting time to be in our industry.”
