To unlock the potential of botanicals, the engineers and agronomists at LMR Naturals – an IFF subsidiary since 2000 – collaborate closely with perfumers. This constant exchange allows them to explore and reveal new olfactory facets, aligning with creative needs.
Research into new extraction technologies also plays a key role in reducing the carbon footprint of ingredients. “Indeed, 80% of the carbon footprint associated with natural ingredients comes not from the raw material itself, but from the processing methods. This is why LMR Naturals has dedicated teams focused on developing more environmentally friendly processes,” explains Bertrand de Préville, CEO of LMR.
On March 18, IFF unveiled four materials resulting from these new approaches.
1. Passion Fruit Pulpxtract
With the exception of blackcurrant bud, fruity notes remain largely synthetic, despite recent advances. Passion fruit is no exception, as its profile is often recreated using sulfur compounds and butyrates.
Through an upcycling approach, LMR Naturals has developed a natural passion fruit extract derived from North American sources. The process involves repurposing the distillation water from fruit juice production, which is then concentrated on a resin and purified with alcohol.
The resulting aroma closely mirrors that of fresh fruit. “The olfactory experience is mouthwatering and indulgent, and as a top note, it brings remarkable lift to a composition,” explains VP Perfumer Juliette Karagueuzoglou.
2. Tonka Bean CO2 Extract
While tonka bean is already well known, supercritical CO₂ extraction reveals a smoother, more indulgent facet of this Amazonian ingredient.
Combined with ethanol purification, this technology reduces the carbon footprint by 34%. Less energy-intensive and free from petrochemical solvents, the process also preserves the bean’s most delicate aromatic molecules. Because the material is only gently heated, the resulting fragrance remains closer to its natural scent.
This exceptionally long-lasting tonka bean CO₂ extract highlights its almond and creamy nuances. “It is particularly well suited to the renewed interest in tonka bean, especially in terms of texture — it enriches the palette by complementing the classic absolute, which has a drier profile,” notes Juliette Karagueuzoglou.
3. Cocoa shell
Like tonka bean, cocoa is not a new addition to the perfumer’s palette. This innovation epitomizes the importance of collaboration with perfumers, who sought to refine its olfactory quality. Research conducted in Madagascar made it possible to valorize the bean shell — also naturally aromatic — to obtain a cocoa extract of exceptional richness.
The extraction process relies on a bio-based solvent developed by R&D, transforming this co-product into an upcycled, traceable, and environmentally responsible ingredient. Molecular distillation then isolates its most refined facets while removing any undesirable notes.
The resulting cocoa is both bitter and smooth, evoking a dark chocolate ganache — “gourmet and sophisticated, with a Van Houten effect,” explains Juliette Karagueuzoglou.
4. CO2 Arabica Coffee
Once again, coffee is not a newcomer to the perfumer’s palette — it is, in fact, highly on trend. However, supercritical CO₂ extraction of Indian coffee beans delivers remarkable olfactory fidelity.
Sourced from Rainforest Alliance–certified origins, this extract reveals an intense profile marked by roasted facets and nuances of toasted hazelnut and chocolate. It is a material that balances smoothness with refined bitterness, while remaining fully traceable and environmentally responsible.
More sustainable and truer to the raw material, these four innovations reflect LMR Naturals’ ability to redefine the landscape of natural fragrances. This work also equips IFF with the means to protect its formulations and offer clients truly distinctive creations.
This article was first published in our April 2026 special issue on Cosmetic Ingredients, available to read here.
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